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Alex Schiffer - Joe Cell -
Experimenters Guide to the Joe Cell
Submitted
by esaruoho on November 21,
2005 - 16:33
Chapter 1.
" Since corrupt people
unite amongst themselves to constitute a force, then honest people must do
the same "
Count
Leo N. Tolstoy.
Introduction.
by Alex Schiffer
http://www.joecell.com.au/alexbook.html
Intention My intention ( to
the best of my ability ) is to remove some of the mystery, secrets, guesswork
and plain misinformation that surrounds the construction of the " cell
". The aim is to help the constructor make a cell in a laid out, step by
step, method that I employ to make my own cells. My knowledge comes from
making the cells. As I have built many working cells, this experience has
given me the knowledge, not by guesswork or reading someone's book or
listening to second or third hand " expert " opinions. I now pass
this information on to you. and it will always stay as my opinion and
information until you build your own cell. Only then will you know how to
make a cell, and not before!
Joe In approximately
1992 a new form of a generator was constructed in Australia. In preparation
for this book, I spoke to both the designer and his fiancee, regarding my
wish to give him the due credits, etc., for his 7 years of work and
cooperation with all involved parties. Unfortunately due to the lunatic fringe
and money grabbers that dealt with him, this poor, victimised individual has
decided to relinquish any further involvement with the cell that bears his
name. So in respect to his wishes, he will simply be referred to as Joe. I
would simply like to say, dear Joe, that if it was not for rare individuals
like you, we the vast brainwashed majority, would never find the true
beauties of Mother Nature's gifts.
It
is now probably to late to save Mother Earth from the years of pollution and
desecration caused by the thoughtless money-grabbing multinationals. As a
species, we are unique. Even a little simple bird keeps its nest clean, yet
we the most intelligent of creation, destroy our only home! Yet, individuals
like Joe show us that there is a better way, a simple pure way, Nature's way.
Without the benefit(?) of years of dogmatic mind shrinking education, Joe
found, by intuition, how to ask Nature a question in such a way that it
answered. The answer was a method of powering machinery without the use of
our primary resources or the creation of pollution. This method is well known
to the select few and the technology has been around for centuries. Joe has
made a crude easy to build version of this generator. The generator is called
a Joe cell.
What is a Joe cell?
To
find out, let us look at some of the characteristics of the cell as stated by
Joe:
*
The water in the cell is not consumed.
*
The cell runs cold to the touch.
*
It takes a period of time before the engine will run from the cell. It then
has an erratic
power
output and works in an intermittent fashion.
*
When the cell is removed from the car, the engine takes an appreciable time
to return
to
" normal " and run from the original fuel.
*
If the cell is left in the car for a long period, the engine becomes "
charged ". From
this
point, the cell is not required for the motor to run.
*
All spark plug leads can be removed and the engine will still run as long as
the
ignition
coil and distributor remain functional.
*
The output of the cell, does not have to be connected to the internals of the
engine, a close external coupling will do.
*
The cell requires the " charging " of the water to work.
*
The " charged " water can be poured from one container to another
without losing the
"
charge ".
*
The cell requires a specific style of construction, little understood by most
constructors.
*
An empirical construction style has evolved with little, if any, science or
success.
*
The source of power for the cell and its use has great value for some individuals.
These
*
individuals are creating misinformation, cloaking operations and fear to the
cell constructors.
*
Human presence can affect the operation of the cell in a positive or negative
way.
There
is much more information on the Joe cell that is available to the privileged
few, but we have enough information from the above clues to identify the
energy type. From the above, it is plain to see ( as I will explain to you )
that without a shadow of a doubt in my mind, the Joe cell is a crude Orgone
accumulator, and that the cell runs on, or collects Orgone. There is a 100%
correlation with Orgone energy and its properties. As these accumulators have
been and are in use all over the world, the constructor can share in this
vast pool of knowledge. For example, as early as the first of January 1867 a
French patent, number 60,986 was issued to a Martin Ziegler for an
accumulator of a living, non electrical type of force . The experimenter can
with a little research, and notes like these, bypass the myths, misinformation
and the mongers of secrets and get on with scientifically based facts. Also,
he can be prepared to realise and meet the DANGERS that await the rash and fool hardy.
I
would like to mention here the special dangers that are associated with the use
of the life force, more particularly the Orgone energy. I presume that the
reader is familiar with the arts required to experiment with hydrogen and
oxygen, and is also competent in the use of the tools required to achieve the
required results. You have read the disclaimer and I will leave it at that.
As
you may be unfamiliar with Orgone, I would like to mention some additional
precautions.
Orgone
is very sensitive to disturbances and agitations from many sources. Thus the
Orgone energy is very easily excited or irritated to produce toxic effects.
The following should be avoided:
*
Any cathode ray device such as a TV sets, computers, oscilloscope, etc.
*
Microwave ovens, fluorescent lights, luminous face watches, smoke detectors
and electric blankets.
*
Mobile phones and towers, courier radio telephone service or similar
instrumentalities, airport radar and communication services, TV, AM, FM radio
transmitters, radio traffic lights, police radar, high tension power lines,
nuclear power plants, nuclear waste or storage facilities, and past or
present nuclear testing areas.
The
above electromagnetic and nuclear devices and materials are known to irritate
Orgone energy, driving it into a severely excited state which Reich
identified as the Oranur effect.
These effects persist long after the irritation is removed ( years ). Under
such persisting agitation, the Orgone energy eventually becomes immobilised
and " dead ". Reich identified this deadened energy state as Dor ( Deadly Orgone ). A typical human
reaction to Dor is lethargy, immobilisation and emotional remoteness. The
most important effect is, that it tends to drive latent medical symptoms to
the surface.
YOU HAVE BEEN
WARNED!
If
Oranur or Dor is present, an accumulator will amplify these tendencies .If my
cells " play-up ", I feel very tired, my face looks and feels
bloated, I have trouble with my eyes, and I feel as if I was sun burnt. You
should dismantle the cell
immediately and find the cause. As for yourself, have a cold shower as soon
as possible and you should feel better.
Chapter 2.
ORGONE
" How else should it be
done then? , was always the immediate question. The answer is simple:
Exactly in the opposite way
that it is done today! "
Viktor
Schauberger.
As
all known effects of Orgone are seen in the functioning of a Joe cell, it is
reasonable to assume that the reader should have a good working knowledge of
Orgone energy. Additionally, as the cell obeys all known Orgone laws and as
the cell's operation does not contradict even one Orgone effect, it is safe
to assume that this is the energy that is utilised in the cell. In honour of,
and respect to one of the world's great, forgotten, and scorned scientists,
namely Wilhelm Reich, I will continue to use the name Orgone as used by
Reich. A multitude of other scientists, great and small, have given this
mysterious force a name. In a following chapter I have listed at least 70
names by various individuals for the same or a similar force.
Orgone
energy is the live cosmic energy of Nature. To quote
Reich ... The Cosmic OR Energy fills
the universe ... and ... it is a
spontaneously pulsating, mass-free energy ...
For
interested readers, there is a huge collection of facts, opinions and
absolute rubbish on the Internet regarding Reich and Orgone. As the aim of
this book is to focus on the Joe cell, the above definition will suffice.
Some
properties of Orgone energy
Thousands
of properties have been observed for the life force and I would like to list
and explain the main ones relating to the cell.
1.
It is mass free. ie. Orgone energy has no inertia or weight etc. So
conventional test equipment that requires a reaction or something to "
push " against to measure a force will be ineffective.
2.
It is present everywhere, but more importantly to the Joe cell user, the
concentration is variable from place to place and from time to time.
Therefore, if the cell is leaky and located in a low concentration area, it
may stop breeding or even loose the seed. The external signs are a motor that
will not produce full power or will not run at all.
3.
It in constant motion. It has an uneven movement from West to East at a speed
considerably greater than the earths rotation. The motion is a pulsating
expansion and contraction and a flow normally along a curved path. Inside an
accumulator, the energy is emitted as a spinning, pulsating wave. Both of
these can be seen to varying degrees in a charging vat and/or cell. These
signs are very important to the experimenter as they are his tools in the
different stages of seeding and breeding of the cell.
4.
It negates the laws of entropy. Orgone energy flows from lower concentrations
to higher concentrations ie. Orgone attracts concentrations to itself. This
is the normal process of creation and as such is a proof of Orgone being a
living energy. For the experimenter, this is very important, especially in
the seeding stage. If the cell is located in an unfavourable location, it may
not seed or take a long time to seed. I have had cells taking 4 weeks to
seed, others take only a few days.
5.
Matter is created from it. Under appropriate conditions, which are not rare
or unusual, I have had different minerals formed from identical cells. This
in my case is usually a white or green powder that forms as very fine colloid
that eventually sinks to the bottom of the cell. You definitely do not want
this to occur in the Joe cell as the cell will not run the car and the only
solution is to completely dismantle, repolish and clean all components. For
the sceptical, you may assume that the deposits are coming out of the water.
I strongly disagree.
6.
It can be manipulated and controlled. We do this in the cell by forming
alternate organic and non-organic " cylinders " to form an
accumulator for the Orgone. Thus the organic layers attract and soak up the
Orgone and the metallic layers draw it from the organic material and radiate
it into the interior of the accumulator. Additionally we use electricity,
magnetism and electrolysis to assist with the breeding process.
7.
It comes from the sun in vast quantities. As such, allowing for thermal lag,
the Orgone density peaks in the afternoon and diminishes in the early morning
hours. As people have found, a leaky cell will not function as it " dies
" around 3 am to 4 am.
8.
It is affected by weather, ie. humidity, cloud, temperature and time of day
affects the accumulation of Orgone. For the experimenter with a leaky cell
this explains the weird behaviour of leaky cells ie. sometimes they work,
other times not, but if you stand on one foot, talk to it, try different
water, chemistry, more or less power etc. it will " come good ".
This has created a whole religion of what you must do or not do, to such an
extent that with the blind leading the blind, the cell in the hands of a
casual constructor is doomed to failure.
9A.
It moves in the direction of a magnetic field. This is highly significant to
the cell builder. This factor controls the position and polarity of the
cell's internal wiring as well as controlling how much residual magnetism the
steel can have and still allow the cell to work. This is critical in the
choice and cutting operations of the related metals. Again, a whole mythology
has developed around this area. From reading previous material on the
subject, it seems that the steel has to be cut by vestal virgins in the Black
Forest on a moonlit night!
9B.
It moves at right angle to an electrical field. Again, highly important, as
it dictates polarity and wiring connection to the cell.
10.
It is absorbed by water. This is one of the reasons that we use water in the
cell. To be successful, the water has to be the right type of water. By the
way, for example, we could have used bees wax instead of water, but as we
want to encourage the breeding process with all the tricks in the book, the bees
wax would have prevented the use of electrolysis.
11.
It is polarised. As Orgone is polarised, that is , we can have positive or
negative Orgonic force, so we can build a positive or negative cell. But, if
you mix your positive and negative construction materials as most people do,
then your result is a leaky or non-operational cell.
12.
It will penetrate or travel along all known materials. All bodies of
continuous structure are equally good conductors eg. It may travel through 70
feet or more of metal. As such, do not think that you are trapping it in the
cell. The only reason it stays in the cell at all is because it wants to. It
is up to the experimenter to set up a seeding and breeding environment that
is conducive to Orgone and not try to create an imaginary prison that the
experimenter hopes will trap the Orgone. As a side note, mankind has created
synthetic materials in recent times that can greatly stop the penetration of
Orgone. I am talking about polymers.
13.
It has a slow conduction rate. Orgone will take 20 seconds or more to
traverse 50 yards of wire. For the experimenter, this means that you should
wait about 30 seconds after turning power on to the cell before you can
expect to observe Orgone action at a stable rate.
14.
It exhibits a constant upward tendency, raising vertically. Highly important
in creating a non-leaky cell installation in an car.
15.
It cannot remain in steel or water longer than about 1 hour. Simply said, if
you cell is not breeding, it will die in about 1 hour. This explains the use
of a 1.5 Volt battery across leaky cells to maintain a breeding process. What
you achieve with the small potential across the cell, is a very low rate of
electrolysis that matches the leaking of the cell and thus maintaining the
breeding process.
16.
It radiates a great distance. From a typical cell the radiation circumference
is at least 160 feet. Think about it!
17.
It follows optical laws. It can be refracted by a prism, reflected by
polished surfaces, etc. This explains the reason for the mirrored or highly
polished surfaces in some parts of the cell. It also allows us to control
some leaking by utilising optical laws.
18.
It surrounds itself with alternating spherical zones of opposite polarity.
This is utilised by us to determine cylinder diameters and consequential
spacing in the optimisation of the cell.
19.
It is affected by living beings. Again, important, as the experimenter and
his attitude can interact with the cell
20.
It can only be concentrated to a finite amount. If a cell is charged to its
maximum degree so that it can hold no more, the Orgone will transform itself
into electricity, and in this way or form, find a discharge. By the visual
observation of the bubbles, pulsations, and surface tension of the water, we
utilise this fact to our advantage.
21.
Torsion ( Orgone ) fields transmit information without transmitting energy,
and they propagate through physical media without interacting with the media.
22.
Torsion ( Orgone ) fields cannot be shielded by most materials, but can be
shielded by materials having certain spin structures. As in point 12 above.
23.
Each physical object, in living or non-living nature, possesses its own
characteristic torsion ( Orgone ) field.
24.
All permanent magnets possess their own torsion ( Orgone ) field.
25.
Torsion ( Orgone ) fields can be generated as a result of a distortion of the
geometry of the physical vacuum. This is demonstrated by pyramids, cones,
cylinders, flat triangles, etc.
26.
Torsion ( Orgone ) fields can be screened by aluminium. This allows the use
of aluminium coated mirrors, or highly polished aluminium to reflect our
Orgone ( Torsion ) field. See point 17 above.
27
It will pass through all materials, but at different speeds.
Chapter 3
COMPARATIVE NAMES
FOR THE LIFE FORCE
" Matter is latent force,
and force free matter " The mystic school
.At
no stage do I even remotely hint that the following terms are identical. The
purpose of the list is to show the many names given to unexplainable forces
of which Orgone is one.
Akasa.
Hindus. Animal magnetism. Mesmer.
Arealoha. Francis Nixon. Astral light. Kabbalists.
Baraka.
Sufis. Bio-cosmic energy. Dr. Oscar Brunler.
Biodynamic
Ether. Rudolf Steiner. Biofield. Yu. V. Tszyan.
Bioplasma.
Russians. Biotronic. Czechs.
Brahma.
Hindus. Ch'i. Chinese.
Chronal
field. A. I. Veinik. Cosmic energy.
Cosmo-electric
energy George Starr. D-field. A. A. Deev.
Dige.
Apache. Digin. Navaho.
Dynamis. Ancient Greeks. Eckankar.
El.
Hebrews. Elan-vital. Henri Bergson.
Electrogravitation.
T. T. Brown. Elima. Nkundu.
Eloptic
energy. T. Galen Hieronymus.
Eloptic radiation. Hieronymus.
Entelechy.
Dreisch. Ether. Aristotle.
Ethertricity.
Gaston Burridge. Fermi Energy.
Fluroplasmic
energy. B. Hilton. G-field. Sir Oliver Lodge.
Gravity
field energy. H. A. Nieper. Hike. Egyptians.
Hullo.
Chickasaw. Ka. Egyptians.
Kerei.
Indonesians. Kirlian effect.
Latent
neutral. Keely. Life Force. Dr. Aubrey T. Westlake.
Logoital
plasma. Hieronymus. Magnetic Fluid.
Mesmer.
Manitou.
Algonquian. Manna of the Polynesians.
Manna.
Israelites. Maxpe. Crow.
Mitogenetic
emanation. A. G. Gurvich.
Mon-emanation. I. M. Shakhparnov.
Multipolar
energy. V. V. Lensky. Mumia. Paracelsus.
Mungo.
African. N-emanation. M. R. Blondolt.
Negative
entropic energy. James DeMayo.
Nervous Ether. Richardson.
Nervous
Ether. Richardson. Neutral force. Kabbala.
Neutricity.
Gallimore. Neutrino sea. P. A. A. Dirac.
Numen.
Romans. Odic Force. Baron Karl Von Reichenbach.
Orenda. Iroquoi. Orgone Energy. Dr. Wilhelm Reich.
Pneuma.
Gallien. Prana. Hindus.
Psychotronic
energy. Czechs. Pure non manifest
energy. Todd R. Knudtso
Reiki.
Japanese. Scalar energy.
Space
energy. Spiritus. Fludd.
Tachyon
energy. Telesma. Hermes Trismegistus.
Time
emanation. N. A. Kozyrev. Tinh. Annamites of Vietnam.
Tondi.
Sumatra. Universal life force. Baron Eugene Ferson.
Virtue. Jesus. Vis medicatrix. Hippocretes.
Vvis
naturalis. Vital Fluid. Alchemists.
Vril.
Wakan. Sioux.
Wakonda.
Omaha. X-agent. H. Moriyama.
X-Force.
L. E. Eeman. Z-emanation. A. L. Chizhevsky.
Chapter 4
ORGONE
POLARITY
" It was especially
forbidden to divulge the law of attraction and repulsion,
which constitutes nature's
greatest secret. "
Mrs. Bloomfield-Moore, circa
1893.
As
Orgone is polarised, either positive or negative, it can be manifested sometimes
as both polarities for a short period of time. In our search for the perfect
Joe cell, it is essential to utilise polarity-conducive materials in the
construction of the cell. With the use of suspect materials that encourages
the creation or retention of both polarities, the cell is not only a poor
breeder ,but also leaky. I would strongly encourage the experimenter to
choose to construct either a negative or positive cell and not to use
materials at random or what happens to be handy or cheap. This is a sure way
to failure.
Positive ( Warm ) Negative ( Cool )
Root
fibres of plants Tips of plant leaves
Negative
electricity Positive electricity
Iron
Selenium
Copper
Sulphur
Tin
Iodine
Lead
Palladium
Brass
Cobalt
German
silver Phosphorus
Alkalies
Acids
Alkaloids
Charcoal
Argentinium
silver Evaporation
Mercury
Steaming
The
base, ( non pointy end ), of crystals Tip of crystals
Friction
Sound
Magnetic
South Magnetic North
Left
hand Right hand
Left
side of body Right side of body
Back
of neck Forehead
Running
water Distillation
Bismuth
Vibration
Zinc
Tellurium
Osmium
Decomposition
Titanium
Oxides
Potassium
Haccoid salts
Calcined
lime Chemical reaction
Caffeine
Vinegar
Paraffin
Alcohol
Creosote
Mouth and tongue
Moon
Sun
Planets
Stars
Red
end of sun's spectrum Blue end of sun's spectrum
As
seen from the above short list, chemical reaction, electrolysis, evaporation,
steaming, vibration, sound and chemicals are the most common goings on in the
cell and in the motor. To rephrase, since the natural events in our cells
habitat favour these actions, I would suggest that the experimenter builds a
cell that utilises as many of these parameters as possible, until he gains
the knowledge of the causes of the cell behaviour. I personally only build
acid cells. I have a dislike of the corrosion associated with alkaline cells
and also find that the water remains crystal clear and the insulators do not
fail in my acid cells.
Chapter 5.
THEORY OF CELL
DESIGN
" Everything that is
natural is silent, simple and cheap "
Viktor
Schauberger.
After
6 years of experimentation, I made the assumption that the Joe cell was
working on Orgone energy. This assumption came as a result of hundreds of
hours of reading and experimentation. In all that time, all the recorded
effects of Orgone, ( and there are hundreds ) have matched the behaviour of
the Joe cell. There has never been a departure from the known recorded effect
of Orgone energy, not even one!
As such it would take a far braver man than I to argue with the huge
supporting evidence of thousand's of man-hours and the work from hundreds of
qualified individuals from all over the world. So, as my own humble
experiments agree with the majority, I have said, and will repeat many times,
the cell runs or more correctly, accumulates Orgone energy.
Theoretical requirements
Sometimes
I have to restate the obvious, namely, if we are to accumulate Orgone energy,
we must have an Orgone accumulator! We are not designing this cell to use
Neutrino's, Deuterium, Nitro-glycerine, steam, Nitrogen, Hydrogen, Hydroxy,
or any other author's pet opinion to the contrary. You will have to read
other publications for those topics and cell designs, this train goes to
Orgone country. We are designing our cell to run on Orgone energy!
When I say " we ", I am assuming that the reader is following suit,
and will build a cell closely matching these instructions. As such, a close
study of the chapters on Orgone properties and cell polarities would be in
order. If you were a naughty boy and skipped over these sections, I would
suggest that you read them now. So what have you discovered? You should be in
agreement with me on at least two points, ie. that the cell should use as
many of one type of Orgone polarity materials and properties as possible, and
additionally, we want to utilise as many as possible of all external forces
available to us to assist us in the accumulation of the Orgone energy.
Are
we on the right track with our Joe cell accumulator? What would we aim for in
the design of a perfect energy accumulator ? Is there any better way to go?
Maybe we are on the wrong track? At this stage it may be a good idea to
consider the design parameters for the ultimate energy source. After all, why
waste our time with the Joe cell if there is a " better " way of
getting our energy. Better meaning, cheaper, parts effective, less polluting,
less destructive, longer lasting, etc. If we look at the quote from Viktor
Schauberger at the start of this chapter, "... natural, silent, simple
and cheap..." is a very good starting point. Let me give you a brief
list of the requirements of this magic accumulator and see if we are on the
right track with the Joe cell:
*
The Joe cell is natural as it operates on the life force ( Orgone ). It is
the only natural man-made energy producing device that does a direct
interchange from a primary energy source to the final energy supply. As such
it seems to provide " free energy " and thus be an impossibility.
This is a huge stumbling block for people who do not understand the concept
of " free energy ".
*
The Joe cell is silent. There are no moving parts. A solar panel or Peltier
effect device would be the closest highly inefficient relations.
*
The Joe cell is simple. No moving parts, a set of cylinders and water, you
could not get it any more simple.
*
The Joe cell is cheap. After the initial outlay, there are no further
material costs or replacements required to worn-out parts. The Joe cell is
virtually everlasting. If you build one with second hand components, your
total outlay should be under AUS $200.00
*
When we use energy that is at its fundamental stage ie. the energy cannot be
broken up into any other energy constituents that are at a smaller level; we
have no waste by-products and thus no pollution. The Joe cell runs on the
life force energy ( Orgone ) which is a fundamental force of the Universe.
You are not going to get any more basic than that!
*
Any centrifugal, expanding and exploding force is wasteful due to the
creation of heat. Any device that generates heat as part of its operation can
never be considered an efficient energy source.
Nor
can it ever be an over unity device. The Joe cell runs cool and so does the
motor that runs from it.
*
Any energy produced from a set of conversion stages is wasteful. For example,
a nuclear submarine has a nuclear reactor to create heat. The heat is used to
create steam from water. The steam drives a steam turbine. The steam turbine
is used to run an electric generator. The electric generator is used to drive
an electric motor. The electric motor turns a propeller. The propeller twists
in water thus providing a thrust. The thrust propels the submarine. You would
have to be kidding! No wonder that superior beings roll on the floor with
laughter on observing our " technology ". How unnatural is all
that? The Joe cell converts the primary life force ( Orgone ) into an
expanding multiple use force in one step. Beautifully simple!
*
The Orgone does not have to be stored or converted and stored. It is an
on-demand system and thus there is no infra-structure required to store,
distribute, ship, sell, etc. Unlike petrol, it is the same price each week (
free ). Definitely not good news for the oil multi-national concerns. Maybe
that is why we are not using this force? < grin>.
So
to summarise, I would say that, ( to the best of my knowledge ) as there is
no alternative energy device to compete with the Joe cell, we would be on the
right track if we build a cell that ran on Orgone. Please note that the Joe
cell and its construction has limitations and negatives as you have already
read and will read in later chapters. As we do not live on a perfect world,
we are not perfect humans and the Joe cell is not a perfect device.
Making a theoretical cell
By
reading through the list of Orgone properties and selecting the ones that
look useable, you should have selected these:
Property 14. As it has a
preference for a vertical and constant upward alignment, we will have the
outlet of our cell at the top most point of the final structure.
Property 6 As it can be
manipulated, it means that we can build a container to house it. We will have
cylindrical cylinders, concentric and with a vertical axis to fit in with Property 14.
Property 10. As it is absorbed
in water, we are going to make a water cell. As we are dealing with water,
the cell has to be water proof and non corrosive.
Property 20. As it can only be
concentrated to a final amount, we know that sooner or later something will
occur in the vertical plane and with our outlet located at the top of this
vertical axis, ie. Property 14,
something will come out.
Property 9A As it moves in
alignment with a magnetic field, we know that if we place one of our
potential's at the bottom of our " conductor ", and the other
potential at the top of our " conductor " a magnetic field will
result and the Orgone field will move in the same direction. As our
conductors are the metal cylinders, they now must have a concentric vertical
alignment to fit in with Property 14.
As we are dealing with magnetic fields, our cell material should not
interfere with the chosen field that assists the Orgone to follow in a
vertical alignment. Also, as we are dealing with water, electrolytes and
magnetism, the cell material suitable for the simple cell should be stainless
steel with a low as possible magnetic residual. Just on the side, our "
conductor " is a complex combination of water, stainless steel cylinders
and ion flow. Nevertheless, it will create a directional magnetic field
Property 9B. As it move at
right angle to an electrical field, our concentric vertical cylinders prove a
perfect match, ie. the electric current flow is from the inner most cylinder,
to the outer most cylinder in horizontal lines. As the Orgone flows at right
angles to this field, the end result is again a vertical alignment of Orgone.
Good stuff!
Now,
from the table of Orgone polarities, we can get a few more " helper's
" to coax the Orgone force to work for us;
The
electrolysis will be very interesting to it, and as Joe said, connecting the
power to the cell when the engine is running is like switching the
turbocharger on full boost, man you are off! Like wise the friction from the
reciprocating parts in the engine will get it to go in and have a peek and
then, " got you! ", we can use it! The sound and vibration are
additional bonuses when the car is running.
Capacitor effect
For
the electronically versed readers, let me explain to you one way that the
cell acts as a concentric energy accumulator. It is a well known fact that
the charge of a capacitor is proportional to the surface area of the plates.
Similarly, we know that the potential increases as we bring the plates closer
together. Now look at the beauty of the Joe cell. We have a set of concentric
plates with an obvious reduction of surface area as we move towards the
middle of the cell, ie. as the cylinder gets smaller in diameter, the surface
area reduces proportionally. Now, as the surface area of the cylinders
decrease towards the middle, we automatically
have the charge increasing as we move towards the center! Therefore, the
greater the number of cylinders, the greater or more intense is this charge
build up. So, thrown in at no extra design cost is an automatic magnifier for
the Orgone force that is concentrated automatically at the center of the
cell. The above applies only if the water can act as an dielectric, ie. that
it does not have too many ions in the water. Thank you Nature! By the way, on
a larger scale, the earth is the middle of the accumulator and the different
atmospheric layers are the cylinders that concentrate the sun radiations.
End result
We
now have a theoretical cell. It is made from a plurality of concentric
stainless steel cylinders in water, with an application of a suitable
electric and magnetic field, and a top-located outlet on a vertical aligned
cell.
So,
the above is the layout and the logic in the construction of a theoretical
cell. Now, dear Joe did not do any of the science, did not know any of the
scientists, did not read any related books and did not know what Orgone was,
but by a stroke of sheer luck and intuition, he made his final cell in the
above configuration, and the rest is history! Yes, dear friend, our
theoretical cell is exactly how you should make you practical working cell.
This will be explained in the next chapter.
Chapter 6
MATERIALS AND CELL
DESIGN
" There is no ideal
crucible, no crucible so perfectly sealed and protected that it can be
considered a closed system, a unit absolutely isolated from the rest of the
universe.
Raymond Abellio, circa 1975.
In
this section, I would like to take you step by step, through the cell
construction process. I have stated in other sections of this book and I
would like to also state here that there are countless methods of
constructing Orgone accumulators. The method described here is based on the
Joe cell construction techniques. For a very comprehensive description of
this type of cell, I would presume that the reader has read, or has access
to, a copy of Barry Hilton's book, "How to run Your Car on Zero Point
Energy ". This book contains in words and diagrams what Joe wanted the
public to know about his cell. As such it is essential reading.
Note. I have a copy of
the above book and recommend it to others, but!, that does not imply that I agree with the theories
or facts as expressed by Barry and Joe. Nor does it imply that I promise you
that if you buy the above book, you will be able to " run " your
car, or even have a working cell. Simply stated, I see Barry's book and my
own, as pieces similar to the pieces of others, in a jig saw puzzle. If you
put all the pieces together, you will understand the life force, or whatever
else you want to call it. You do not require all the pieces if you only want
to " run " a car, but the more pieces you have, the greater is you
understanding of the causes, not just the effects. Thus the car will run for
a longer period of time without mysterious " down times ".
I
am not interested, as established before, in arguing, challenging, debating,
competing, or defending my written notes with any parties. I give you these
notes freely as a pointer, to show you a method of cell construction that
works for me. If you have something constructive to contribute, I will gladly
alter my notes.
Right,
with the preamble out of the way, lets get to work. I will go through each
step:
A. Parts list.
B. Selection of materials.
C. Machining operations.
D. Options.
E. Assembly.
A. Parts list.
The
following parts lists, tie in with section D.
Common
to all vats and cells, you will require lugs that can fit over a ½ inch ( 12
mm. ) bolt, and multi strand wire capable of flowing 10 Amps continuously,
red for positive and black for negative. You may want to purchase an in-line
fuse holder and a few 5 Amp fuses to suit.
A1.
Charging vat. ( Optional item ).
This
vat can be any suitable low paramagnetic food grade steel container. A
favourite with Joe and others is a stainless steel beer keg. These seem to be
plentiful,. but be wary of quality. The seam welds are particularly
paramagnetic. There is a story of Joe testing about a hundred kegs before he
found one that he liked. Unless you are going to use the large cones, about
10 inches ( 250 mm. ) diameter, I see no useful purpose to have such a large
charging vat. Even if you employ it to fill up your radiator, it is still a
hell of a lot of water. I could see a use for one as a shared club or group
resource, but not for one individual. I personally use a much smaller vat
with an internal working height of 11 inches and a diameter of 8 inches. This
type of keg has the advantage of not being seam welded horizontally half way
up the container. This is exactly where you do not want any magnetic bands!
My cone diameters are either 5.5 inches or 6 inches depending on the scrap
metal dealer.
So,
you will need:
1
x Keg of your chosen size.
8
x Cones of chosen size.
1
x Nylon, or similar, central cone support rod.
8
x Nylon, or similar, spacer washers to suit cones and central support rod.
16
x Neoprene O-rings to suit central support rod
1
x 300 mm. long by 6 mm. diameter ( approx ) stainless steel support rod. (
Use horizontally across keg to hold central rod and cone assembly ).
1
x 1 meter long ( approx ), by 12 mm. wide stainless steel strap,
approximately 1 mm. thick.
6
x Stainless steel pop rivets.
Note. If you just want to get on
with it, and you only want to charge your car cell, you do not require a
charging vat. Its main virtue is the quantity of water and the ability to
remove any scum from the top of the water. Unfortunately, as you car cell is
enclosed, this scum is not so readily removed, but there is nothing to stop you charging the water in your car
cell, tipping out you stage 3 water in a glass container, filtering this
water and reintroducing it back into you car cell. Anyway, if you use the
methods described in these notes, you will find that your scum will be at a
minimum. I have always charged my car cells as a stand alone unit, ie. no
charging vat. The advantages are that you know that the cell and the water
are okay and not just the water, as the case would be, if you simply added
the water out of your charging vat into your car cell.
A2.
4 cylinder test cell.
The
test cell is a vital piece of equipment that you should make. It has two main
functions: One, it is a training aid for you while you are learning about the
different stages of charging the water. You will easily be able to observe
the different bubble types, surface tensions, deposits in the sump and
colloidals suspensions in the water. Two, you will be able to fill it up with
suspect water from you main car cell and test to see if the water is still at
stage 3. You do not have to be Einstein to work out that your test cell
container should be transparent.
You
will need;
1
x Glass or clear ( not translucent ) acrylic container about 6 inches ( 150
mm. ) diameter by about 8 inches ( 200 mm. )tall. The container must have a
lid!
1
x Set of 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch cylinders about 5 inches ( 125 mm
) long.
18
x ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) diameter by ½ inch long spacers.
1
x Approx. 10 inches ( 250 mm ) stainless steel strap as per charging vat
parts list.
2
x Small stainless steel nuts and screws to secure the strap to the plastic or
glass container.
2
x Stainless steel pop rivets.
1
x 1.5 feet ( 500 mm. ) of heat shrink tubing to fit over you stainless steel
strap.
2
x Lower acrylic support combs, ( to be described later ).
Note. If you use the glass jar, you
may want to insert the negative via a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) stainless steel bolt
via a hole that you drill through the bottom of the jar. In that case, you
will need a 3 inch ( 76 mm. ) stainless steel bolt, nut and washer, plus two
Nylon or Teflon machined washers where the bolt exits the glass container.
The extra effort may not be worth it unless you can get the parts cheaply.
A3.
4 cylinder car cell.
The
construction of the 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder cells are the same except for
the extra cylinder and 6 spacers. Thus I will only describe the construction
of the 5 cylinder cell. If you want to make a 4 cylinder cell, follow the
construction of the 5 cylinder cell without the extra cylinder.
Note. The only reason that I mention
the 4 cylinder cell at all, is again due to the myths that have developed in
the " field ". Basically, the story goes like this: It is rumoured
that if you do not use the charging vat, you can only charge and run you car
with a 5 cylinder cell. You supposedly cannot charge you water with a 4
cylinder cell, only run you car on it. Joe also mentions in his video that he
thinks that the 4 cylinder may even run the car better than the 5 cylinder
cell. Personally, I have found that you can charge both a 4 and a 5 cylinder
cell and thus, they will also run the car. As the leakage of a cell is
determined by the " layers " or number of concentric cylinders, the
5 layer cell is a better cell. I have found that a 5 cylinder cell works much
better for me and I really have nothing to recommend the 4 cylinder cell for,
except that it is a smaller cell. There is still meagre feedback from
constructors, so the jury is still out.
A4.
5 cylinder test cell.
This
is my favourite configuration. My very first test cell was a glass 5 cylinder
cell with 7 inch long cylinders. This cell has been in constant use now, for
about 6 years, still not broken after countless dismantles and services. The
insulators and cylinders after 6 years are as good as they were on day 1.
This
cell uses the ½ inch bolt-through-the-bottom alternative.
The
construction is the same as the 4 cylinder test cell, with the addition of 6
extra spacers to support the extra 5 inch cylinder. That's it.
A5.
5 cylinder car cell.
This
is the one, dear people. You either get this one right or end of Joe cell as
reality and back to fantasy. This is the baby that has to seed and breed for
you. This is the one that has to be reliable and sludge free. This is the one
that people will judge your sanity on. If it does not work, you go down the
path of all other failures and dreamers. Conversely, when you get it working,
you will not be able to count all your new " friends ". They will
all want one, just " like the wizard made ".
There
are variations, I will give you my favourite one, you will need:
1
x Set of hand selected, polished, clean, low paramagnetic, ( maybe heat
treated ) 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch inner cylinders, of 8 inch
length, or length very close to 8 inches, as calculated from own your
calculations as per Chapter 7.
1
x 5 inch diameter outer cylinder, as above, but 10 inches long.
1
x Lower plate, one 5 inch thread, one 5 inch O-ring seal and one 5 inch nut
to suit the above
outer
casing. This is not of-the-shelf. You will need machine work to make the
press fit
section.
See diagram.
1
x Top cone. This is a standard 5 inch to 1 inch tube reducer. Apex angle to
suit material but between 60 and 90 degrees and optimally 57 degrees for 316L
stainless.
24
x ½ inch diameter by ½ inch long ebonite or similar spacers.
1
x 3 inch long by ½ inch diameter stainless steel bolt, nut and washer.
2
x Nylon or Teflon machined insulators for bolt exit.
1
x 1 inch ( 24 mm.) diameter compression fitting for your cell outlet. This
outlet will be a right- angle or straight fitting depending on your
individual requirement. This is where your 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outside diameter
aluminium engine pipe fits in.
1
x A suitable length of 1 inch outside diameter ( 24 mm. ) aluminium tube for
your cell to engine blind plug fitting. ( My tube has a 20 mm. inside
diameter but this is not critical ).
1
x 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) long, ½ inch ( 13 mm. ) inside diameter stainless steel
tube. This slips over the stainless steel bolt and holds the inner cylinders
clear of the bottom
3
x Acrylic combs to support the inner cylinders. Optional, to be described
later.
Note. All components should have the
minimum paramagnetic field possible. Your test magnet can be slightly
attracted, but must not stick and support its own weight! All parts are to be
cleansed in mild vinegar or acetic acid that has been added to juvenile
water. Do not leave finger prints on any stainless steel surface.
Regarding
heat treating, as the Curie point of most stainless steel is 800F and higher,
our heat treatment must exceed this temperature. Two methods that work are:
1. Local advice from a Melbourne
heat treatment operator: he suggests to place the material in an oven at
1200F for three hours in a Nitrogen gas, then reduce the temperature slowly
to atmospheric over twelve hours.
2. TM Technology, ( http://.www.tinmantech/html/faq_stainless_working_joe-c.html
) suggest 800F to 1200F for ½ to 2 hours.
B. Selection of material.
Material
selection can be broken down into:
B1.
Stainless steel cylinders and cones or domes.
A
vast amount of good advice and pure drivel has been written on this subject. So
much so, that I had cell builders from USA telling me that the right grade
316l stainless steel is unobtainable over there, and Australia is the only
place that is can be sourced from! I have also been told by " experts
" that this steel can only be made in the Southern Hemisphere ( due to
the Earth's magnetic field rotation, ) and that is why the Joe cell only
works in Australia and New Zealand! When I tell them that I cannot afford to
buy new steel and obtain most of my stock via scrap metal dealers from
dismantled American and British food machinery, they then think I am hiding
the truth from them and that I am somehow refusing to show them the "
secrets " of the cell design. What can you do with some people?
So,
where do we go to get this " unobtanium " material? Where is the
line between fact and fiction?
First
of all, let's go to the start of Joe and his cell designs. You would have
noticed historically that he used plastic and stainless steel in his designs
and, irrespective of the material used, ALL
types of cells worked for him. So it does not have to be stainless
steel at all! As I will show in a later book, stainless steel is really quite
a lousy material, but will suffice for this cell. However, as people,
including Joe, experimented with various chemicals, they discovered that some
stainless steels had three main advantages; namely, it formed a good pressure
container, it was impervious to the majority of chemicals and it was "
non-magnetic ".
I
will list some of the " non-magnetic " stainless steel, but please
note that all stainless steel will be magnetic to some slight degree:
AISI 304. Used in dairy,
textile, dyeing and chemical industries for containers subject to different
types of corrosive conditions.
AISI 316. Parts for chemical
and food plants, wearable for high temperature.
AISI 316L. As for 316, but
with superior corrosion resistance when exposed to many types of chemical
corrosives, as well as marine atmospheres. It also has superior creep
strength at elevated temperatures.
AISI 310. Furnace parts,
radiant tubes, annealing boxes and heat treatment fixtures.
AISI 410. Cooking utensils,
turbine blades, coal screens and pump rods.
AISI 420. For the automobile
and aircraft industry. Components such as valves, pistons, and nuts and
bolts.
AISI 431. Parts requiring
highest strength and rust resistance.
Now,
for reasons that I do not fully understand, the Joe cell fraternity has
decided that only 316L will
do. I have proved over and over that this is a myth. Not only that, I would
challenge any builder to pick 316L stainless from similar grades at a scrap
metal dealer! What we are looking for are cylinders, cones and domes that
have the least remanent paramagnetism. This is easily checked by taking your
faithful rare earth magnet to your metal dealer. My magnet is only 5 mm.
diameter by 3 mm thick and is attached to a convenient length of fishing
line. By swinging the magnet near the stainless steel you will easily see how
paramagnetic the steel is. Especially check the longitudinal or spiral seam
welding. The magnet will be attracted to the seam, but reject the material if
weld seam is discoloured for more than ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ), or it is a
different thickness to the rest of the metal, or the magnet sticks and stays
there supporting its own weight.
Note.
*
Always have a keeper on your test magnet when you carry it in you pocket, as
it just loves to " wipe out " credit cards and similar magnetic
stripe products!
*
Do not use a ferrite
magnet! similar to the easily obtainable round speaker magnets that every
experimenter has in abundance. These are nowhere near strong enough and you
will be deluded into thinking that you have found " Joe cell steel
heaven ", as the stainless steel will pass your magnetic tests.
If
you plan to heat treat you cell components after all machining and welding
operations, the selection process does not have to be quite so rigorous. I
personally would get the least paramagnetic steel anyway, as it is no extra
in a scrap dealer and you may not have to heat treat the completed cell.
*
If you are buying new stainless stock be prepared for some awfully dodgy 316L
stainless.
It
seems to vary tremendously with the country of origin. I have found that
certified stainless in a plastic wrappers and with '316L' written longitudinally
and repetitively along the whole length is generally fine. You will find that
when you spin a good piece in a lathe and gently hold it with your hand, a
good piece will feel " round ", but with a bad piece, you will feel
longitudinal ripples. Similarly when you are cutting a piece of genuine 316L
you will hear a ringing and the saw will be really working to cut it. I have
cut some so-called 316L that cuts like butter! Believe me, real 316L is a
bitch to work with.
Summary
of the above. Since 316L is " the best ", try to buy some certified
316L stock. Try to buy some seamless tube if you can. Do not buy any on some
salesperson's guarantee that it is non-magnetic. Test it! If they will cut it free of charge, see how they cut it
and get it cut at least 1 inch, ( 25 mm. ) oversize. Usually a top supplier
will charge about a $1.00 a cut with a liquid cooled band saw. In such a
case, you do not require a large waste margin, a ¼ inch will do for you
truing operation on the lathe. Make sure that there are no dents or major
scratches in the sections that you purchase.
The
cones are usually an off-the-shelf reducer and you should have no problems in
getting what you want ( except for price ). The cones normally have seam
welds, so check these. You can also get of-the-shelf, any compression
fitting, flange, thread, blanking cap, bolts, nuts and washer. What you can
buy is only limited by the size of your wallet All certified stock, even the
washers, will have '316' written or stamped into the component. If you are using
dome ends of varying geometrical configurations, you will have to have them
hand beaten or spun to you dimensions. I don't have to tell you that anything
to do with stainless is expensive. Think about it three times and buy once
only! Consider carefully what cone angle you want to use. For example, a cone
reducer from 5 inches to 1 inch can be made in many different angles. Do not
assume, that because the end holes are the correct diameter, that this
automatically makes the optimum cone angle.
B2.
Insulation material and cylinder spacers.
The
insulation material that is used where the ½ inch ( 12.5 mm. ) bolt exits the
lower cell fitting is not that critical. I have used Nylon, Teflon and
similar polypropylene and polycarbonates. They all work fine. Find a plastics
supplier and rummage through his bin of rod offcuts, or if that fails, you
will have to buy some. The colour is not important. I use a white or off
white as a preference. Teflon is by far the best, if you can afford it. I do
not use it. I buy 2 inch ( 50 mm. ) greasy Nylon rod that is far cheaper and
that I machine to my final sizes.
The
insulators between the cylinders are a different story. These tend to have
deposits formed on them over a long ( over 6 months ) period of time. The can
also crack or loose their elasticity causing the cylinders to move, or they
will disintegrate or turn to jelly. When I first started on this project, I
copied Joe and used rubber " counter hose " as found on the roads
in that era for traffic monitoring. This hose material is no longer in use,
and there was really nothing special about it, just handy as it was always
laying around on some road or other < grin >.
As
my cell design developed, I started matching my materials with the Orgone
polarity. I found sulphur based product ideal for the acid cell, so now I use
½ inch ( 12 mm. ) ebonite rod. I am not telling you to start using ebonite
rod, only that it is a suitable spacer. Ebonite rod is quite cheap eg. ½
inch
diameter by a meter long is about AUS $6.00. In Melbourne you can obtain it
from E. C. Menzies Pty. Ltd., 19 Ewing St. Brunswick. Phone is (03)
9387-5544. As purchased, this rod is not polished and you could polish it
with fine wet and dry emery paper if you so wish.
You
can also use 100% silicon thick wall tubing, or red rubber chemical corks of
the right size as recommended by Barry Hilton. I have tried a mixed set of
the above in one cell to see which would fail first. I discovered that after
6 months both the silicon tubing and the rubber corks lost some elasticity
and although the cylinders had not slipped, in a four wheel drive, rough
terrain application, there would have been some problems. A neutral and
superior spacer can be machined from Teflon rod and it works very well.
B3.
Cell to motor tube.
This
one is nice and quick. I have stuck to 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter
aluminium tube, with a wall thickness of 1/16 of an inch, ( about 1.6 mm. )
so the inside diameter is 20 mm. It is readily obtainable, reasonably easy to
bend, electrically conductive and works well as a guide for Orgone. I
standardise on 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) outer tube diameter for all the cells that I
make and supply and thus the cells are interchangeable for fault finding and
performance checking. I would strongly suggest that the bigger groups
involved in cell design, should agree to a set of standards for cell design
that are mutually agreed to world wide. This would allow mass production of
cells with the related advantage of cost cutting and uniformity. Other
diameter of tubes and materials can be used, there is no rigid rule. If you
find something that works for you and it is readily obtainable and cheap,
please let me know so that I can add it as an update to this manual. For
example, I have used normal clear plastic water tubing, covered it with
aluminium foil and then I have heat shrunk a plastic sleeve over the lot to
give it strength. Not as good as solid aluminium, but easy to form and easy
to make when you have no access to solid aluminium tube.
So
there you have it for the materials. Low component count, therefore simple
and close to Nature.
C. Machining operations.
Machining
operations can be broken down into;
C1.
Cutting operations.
This
is one of the important steps in cell construction. As previously stated, any
high speed cutting at the steel supplier's premises will probably involve the
creation of heat. Any colour change due to heat in the cutting operation must be removed from the final
length of the component. That is why I suggested the oversize margin in B1.
If the tube is cut with a liquid cooled bimetallic blade or at low feed
speeds with a metal cutting disk, you will not see any colour change
whatsoever! When I cut my tubing at home, I simply use a 4 inch ( 100 mm. )
angle grinder in a cutting attachment and slowly rotate the tube as I cut the
steel. There is no colour change and I can cut my tubes so close to the
finished size that the lathe work is only a truing operation. As mentioned
above, I true the tubes and match for length at slow speed in the lathe. The
final matching of the cylinders is done by holding a metal ruler across the
tops of two cylinders. You should see no light under any of the four contact
spots. I match all my cylinders starting at the 1 inch one and work outwards.
C2.
Polishing.
This
is not a difficult operation. I use about 400 grade emery paper and whilst
the part is rotating in the lathe, I polish the internal and external tube
surfaces. Do not polish to leave cross hatch marks, ie. do not move your
emery paper laterally back wards and forwards at speed. Make you lateral
traverses slowly. That's it, no mysterious techniques.
C3.
Welding.
I
have my parts either Tig, Mig or plain old oxy acetylene welded with 316L rod
or wire. Again no mysterious techniques, just a good welder.
C4.
Insulators and spacers.
I
turn my chosen spacer material on the lathe. I cut off my ebonite rod or
Teflon to ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) lengths on the lathe. Ditto, no mysteries.
As
you can see, there is no laser cutting or matching to angstrom units for part
dimensions. Nor is there any submerged welding by highly qualified aircraft
experts. All operation can be performed by a handyman or the nearest machine
shop.
C5.
Press fit operations.
I
sometimes press fit components. At all times, as a result of the press fit
process, I make sure that I have no change in internal dimension and the
press fit is exactly that, ie. not a finger push fit. I clean and "
pickle " the surface prior to the press fit operation for about 15
minutes and then wash off the chemicals in juvenile water. On the external
side of the press fit, I deposit a ring of 24 hour Araldite to guard against
any weepage of electrolyte. The adhesive you, use whatever it is, must not be
accessible to the internal working of the cell, otherwise it will deposit
itself all over the cylinders and insulators and diminish or " kill
" cell operation.
D. Options.
The
following options are possible;
D1.
Construction of a charging vat.
The
options are related to the cone diameters As explained in A1, I make the small
charging vats; Joe, Barry and others make the large ones that use 10 inch (
250 mm. ) cones. There are variations in the quantity of cones, as used by
Joe, and this is covered in detail in Barry's book. I prefer to use 8 cones,
1 reflector, 1 positive, 2 negative and 4 " spacers ". There are
also variations in the support method of the cones. I prefer the central
Nylon rod. Others prefer spacers between all the cones around the periphery
of adjacent cones and an agricultural pipe up the middle of the cones ( see
Barry's book).
As
mentioned previously, unless you are after a vast quantity of charged water
or have scum problems, you will not need it.
D2.
Construction of 4 cylinder test cell.
You
can have the outer container made from glass or acrylic ( Perspex ), but in
all cases, make sure it is clear. The other variation is in the method of
extracting the negative, either with a stainless steel strap out the top, or
with a stainless steel bolt out the bottom. Again, it is up to you. The bolt
out the bottom is a pain, as the container now has to be supported by a
suitable stand. Also, the bolt method introduces further costs. For a test
cell, it is not mandatory to use a bolt entry from the bottom of the cell.
D3.
Construction of 4 cylinder car cell.
See
notes for 5 cylinder car cell.
D4.
Construction of 5 cylinder test cell.
See
notes for 4 cylinder test cell.
D5.
Construction of 5 cylinder car cell.
The
variations are quite numerous. The obvious ones are the composition of the
spacers and insulators. This I have covered and will not repeat.
We
have a choice in the way that we " join " the outer cylinder with
the cones or domes or plates .
We
have a choice in the support mechanism for the inner cylinders.
We
have a choice in the geometric shape of our top and bottom " covers
".
We
have a choice in the way that we attach the ½ inch bolt to the 1 inch tube.
We
have a choice in the outlet fitting type.
E. Assembly.
E1.
Charging vat.
There
are several versions of the charging vat. There is a thorough coverage by Barry
Hilton in his book. I suggest that the reader has a look and then they can
decide which version they want to build.
Either
way, apart from size and some minor details, the vats are very similar. The
one that I am about to describe is my version and matches the previous part
list. I will keep this section brief, on the assumption that you have seen
Barry's book. As you can see, the photos make the construction quite clear.
E1a.
I will mention a few pointers that may be not clear from the photographs:
*
Remove the metal mandrel head out of the pop rivets as the remanent head is
not stainless steel and will be magnetic and will rust.
*
The stainless steel strap from the two negative cones must not be cut, and
thus is one continuous length ( as described in Barry's book ).
*
The function of the O rings, is to allow the gasses liberated by electrolysis
to pass via the irregularly cut central holes of the cones. You place one
O-ring on each side of the Nylon spacers. So the order would be, one cone,
one O-ring, one Nylon spacer, one O-ring and finally the next cone and so on
with the next O-ring, etc. until you complete the cone stack.
As
you can see, I have left this section very brief on the assumption that most
readers will not build a charging vat, or if they did, there is sufficient
information above if you study the photos.
E2.
4 cylinder test cell.
I
will not cover this test cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder test cell,
minus one cylinder.
E3
4 cylinder car cell.
I
will not cover this car cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder car cell,
minus one cylinder.
I
have however, provided ample photographic views of the construction.
E4.
5 cylinder test cell.
E4a.
The 5 cylinder test cell is similar to the 5 cylinder car cell as described
in E5 below. When you complete you 5 cylinder sub-assembly as per E5c, palace
it to one side and proceed with next step.
E4b.
Have somebody drill the appropriate size hole in the bottom of the jar to
match the stepped washer as per E5e. I drill my own hole in the glass, using
the right size outer diameter copper tube. I attach this copper tube in a
slowly rotating vertical drill and lubricate the copper cutting edge with a
mixture of kerosene and fine valve grinding compound. The grinding compound
can be obtained from any motor accessory shop. Go nice and easy, and
frequently add new cutting paste. Haste means a broken jar, so do not say I
did not warn you. When finished, dispose of the ground glass, paste, etc. in
a safe way.
E4c.
Assemble cylinder sub-assembly to glass jar as per car cell assembly. Do not
over-tighten the nut! Fill with juvenile water, test for leaks, etc.
E5.
5 cylinder car cell.
E5a.
Rather than covering the construction of Mark 1, Mark 2, mark 3, etc. types
of cell, I will cover the construction of a 5 cylinder that I consider as the
" best " of the simple type of Orgone accumulators that we have
called the Joe cell. I cannot see any value in covering the other variants of
simple type of 5 cylinder cells, only to tell you at the end to build the one
I am about to describe.
E5b.
Make sure that you hands are not oily and re-check that all cylinders are
clean. Obtain a kitchen cutting board or a piece of MDF or chip-board or any
smooth and level surface will do. We will assemble the cell upside down on
this flat surface, as this will ensure that the finished cell will be flat
across the tops of the cylinders, ie. the side that is on the flat surface (
as this is the critical area! ). As your cylinders will not be perfectly
identical in length, this method will also place the irregularities towards
the bottom of the cell, where it is not as important.
*
The first step is to prepare our ½ bolt, so that the hexagon head is a tight
press fit into one end of the 1 inch cylinder. A minimum amount is ground or
turned to off from the hexagon head so that the bolt head is a tight
interference fit inside the tube. I have seen bolts with unaltered heads
hammered into the pipe. Depending on the bolt, this caused the tube to assume
a hexagonal appearance where the bolt head was forced into the tube. It still
works okay, but it is not aesthetically pleasing. If you perform the task
correctly, there will be a minimum of distortion to the outside of the tube
and the water will be able to flow easily in and out the tube via the hexagonal
flats of the bolt head, as they are not touching the inside walls of the
tube.
*
The head of the bolt is pressed into the tube until the bottom of the head is
in the tube by ¼ of an inch or 6 mm. See diagram and picture. If you look
through the tube you must see adequate clearance for water flow. On the bolts
I use, when I finish the lathe work, all the hexagon shape is removed and I
have to grind 3 slots in the head with my angle grinder to provide channels
for water flow. When you roll the 1 inch tube on a flat surface the bolt
shaft should roll with no wobble. This verifies that you have pressed the
bolt head squarely into the tube. It is easy to drive some bolts into the
tube and not keep it concentric-centric with the tube. The end result is that
the whole inner cylinder assembly will be askew and interfere with the proper
seeding of the cell.
E5c.
Now take your 1 inch tube and place it upright on your assembly board, with (
obviously ) the bolt toward your face. Remember that the flat board end of
the tube will finish up as the top of the inner cylinder assembly. Take you 2
inch tube, slip it over the 1 inch tube and position it so that there is an
equal gap between the 2 inch and the 1 inch tube. As you build up your inner
cylinder assembly you will repeat this step with you 3 inch and 4 inch tubes.
*
Take 3 of you chosen ½ inch (12 mm. ) long insulating spacers and force them
into the gap between the tubes at 120 degree spacing. Push your insulating
spacers into the tube until they are below the tube edge by ¼ of an inch ( 6
mm. ). As I use ½ inch ebonite spacers, I have to file a flat to reduce the
overall diameter of the ebonite before I press fit them into the tube. I
place this longitudinal flat towards the convex or outer cylinder surface for
best friction fit. If you use Teflon or Nylon rod, you will have to machine
this tolerance factor into you rod diameter before you cut it up into you ½
inch spacers. Naturally, this problem does not exist with rubber hose or any
other malleable material. You will find that if you use a malleable material,
with time, your cylinders will sag and you will lose your critical level top
line-up from inner cylinder to inner cylinder. In that case, I would suggest
that you make a supporting comb assembly under the cylinders to support them.
I have made these out of Perspex ( acrylic ) and they resemble a comb with
the teeth facing upwards. The cylinders fit in the roots of these teeth, with
the teeth spacing being the gap between adjacent cylinders. Please be wary of
the type and quantity of acrylic that you use. Several experimenters have
found that some grades of acrylic can short circuit the cylinders if used for
separators or support medium. Avoid acrylic and similar materials until you
become more proficient with cell characteristics.
*
You now reverse your 1 inch tube and do the above, for the top 3 insulators.
As the bolt body is obviously in you way when you try to place the tube on
your flat surface, you will have to drill a ½ inch hole in your assembly board.
I hope that it is not your wife's or girlfriends chopping board or bread
board! So now the finished product is a 2 inch cylinder supported by 3 top
and 3 bottom spacers with a dead flat relative top surface.
*
The above procedure is repeated for your 2 inch to 3 inch tubes, and your 3
inch to 4 inch tubes. I find that for the 3 inch to 4 inch tubes, it is
better to use 4 insulators at each end for a total of 8 instead of 6 inter
tube spacers. The reason is that the larger diameter of the 4 inch tube now
allows considerable flexure and 3 insulators at each end are not enough for a
firm fit.
*
There is no magic in the alignment of inter tube insulator line-up. Some
perfectionists insist in having 3 radial lines ( as in three spokes of a
bicycle wheel ), radiating out from the center, with 120 degree spacing. I
have not found this critical. You now have a inner tube cylinder sub-assembly
completed. The last step is to put the assembly back on your flat surface
with the eventual working top down, and the bolt pointing up towards you. Now
with a wooden or rubber mallet, gently tap all the cylinder edges, as to
force the eventual top surface to be perfectly flat. Great, put this sub
assembly to one side and let's move on.
E5d.
To assemble the outer case of the cell, the following welding and machining
operations are required:
*
Have your top cone to compression fitting welded together. I would suggest
that your compression fitting is designed for 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer
diameter tube. This way, all club members or larger groups will be able to
interchange cells as a help with car conversions. After the above welding,
remove any " dags " that resulted from the welding operation. Grind
and polish this junction, so that the internal transition from cone to outlet
fitting is as smooth as you can achieve, without ridiculous fastidiousness.
Check that the joint is water tight.
*
Press fit your modified thread to one end of the 5 inch cylinder, making sure
that the 5 inch cylinder protrudes slightly below this male thread, so there
is metal to metal contact with the lower cap when it is assembled and the 5
inch nut is done up . This step must also allow reasonable compression of the
O-ring. See pictures.
*
Have the cone welded to the other end of the 5 inch cylinder. As in the step
above make sure that the transition from cone to outer cylinder is smooth on
the inside. Check that the joint is water tight.
*
At this stage, have you outer assembly heat treated to remove the
paramagnetism from the welding operation. I do not do this, I use the unit as
it ends up after welding and the cell works okay, but to guarantee the
success of your cell, I would strongly recommend the heat treatment step.
When the unit come back from the heat treatment people, lightly repolish the
outside and inside. Also, at this stage, run a bead of 24 hour Araldite, or
similar, over the outside only junction of the pressed thread ring and
the 5 inch cylinder. This will ensure that you will not have any slight
electrolyte weepage from the press fit. This completes the outer case
construction. Place it next to you completed inner cylinder assembly and lets
move on.
E5e.
All that is left to do is to complete the lower cap and ½ inch bolt support
system. In the middle of the lower cap, you will need a hole that is ½ inch (
12 mm. ) greater in diameter than the shaft diameter of the bolt. So for
example, if your bolt shaft was ½ inch diameter, you would drill a 1 inch
hole in the lower cap plate. This allows a ¼ inch ( 6 mm.) gap that will be
filled up by your inner insulating washer.
*
You now require a 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) length of thin wall tubing that you push
onto the bolt until it touches the lower edge of the bolt head. Make sure
that the outer diameter of this sleeve tube is not so large that it blocks the
water flow in and out of the 1 inch cylinder.
*
The next step is to make 2 washers from Nylon, Teflon, etc. The inner washer
will be stepped ( see photo ). The smaller diameter step will have a 1 inch
outer diameter and deep enough to be nearly as thick as the cap material
thickness. The outer diameter of this stepped washer is not critical, so
about 1.5 inches will do .The thickness of this larger diameter matches the
distance that the bolt is inserted inside the 1 inch tube. So, ¼ inch ( 6 mm.
) is required in our example. This will result in the inner cylinder assembly
being 1 inch above the lower cap. This insulator has a central hole drilled
through it to exactly match the shaft diameter of the chosen bolt. A tight
fit here will minimise and water loss down the bolt and thus out of the cell.
The insulator that is on the bolt on the outside of the lower cap is easier
to make. Make it about ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) thick and 1.5 inches wide. The hole
in the center is again made to match the shaft diameter of the bolt.
E5f.
Now assemble the inner cylinder assembly to the lower cap plate. With clean
hands, place the inner cylinder assembly top down, bolt up, on your flat
plate. If not already done, slip your 1 inch long spacer sleeve onto the
bolt. Next apply Vaseline ( petroleum jelly ), liberally all over the bolt
shaft and inner washer. Place the inner washer onto the bolt so that the
smaller diameter step is facing you and liberally cover this step with more
Vaseline. Now place the lower cap onto the bolt the right way round, so that
the 1 inch step of the inner insulator fits into the 1 inch hole of the lower
cap. Again liberally apply Vaseline on the outer insulator and slip this over
the bolt. Next, put you washer, electrical lug and nut on the bolt ( see
photo ). Tighten the nut more than hand tight but not excessively. Check your
handiwork, make sure you remove excess Vaseline also ensuring you do not get
any on the cylinders or over the inside of the cap plate.
E5g.
Take you outer casing, Vaseline the O-ring and sit it in the groove of the 5
inch male thread. Lower your completed inner assembly and make sure that the
lower cap plate fits snugly into the 5 inch outer tube, without disturbing
the O-ring. Take your 5 inch nut and screw it on the thread. Use reasonable
force to do the nut up.
E5h.
Fill the cell up right to the top with juvenile water and leave it overnight
in an area or surface where you will be able to see any leaks. If there were
no leaks, pour out the water and give yourself a pat on the back. Why?
Because you are finished. You can now insert fresh juvenile water to the
correct level and start your charging operations. Good going!
Chapter 7
SEED
DIAMETER/HEIGHT RATIO
" Nature is the embodiment
of the simplest conceivable mathematics. "
Albert
Einstein.
To
calculate the height of the cylinders for maximum efficiency, proceed as
follows:
1.
As covered in greater detail in the chapter on " Charging the water
", make sure that you have your chosen test current flowing through the
cell. I normally adjust my electrolyte to obtain a repeatable current flow of
1 Ampere with 12 Volts across the cell.
2.
Place a known voltage across the innermost cylinder and the outermost
cylinder. For car use, I suggest 12 Volts from a car battery or equivalent.
The negative goes to the inside bottom of the innermost cylinder, ( normally
1" diameter ), and the positive goes to the outside top of the outermost
cylinder, ( normally 4" or 5" diameter ). Measure this voltage
accurately!
3.
Now leave one lead of the voltmeter on the inner cylinder, and with the other
lead, find the half voltage point radially from the inner cylinder to a point
in the water. Do your best to memorise this point. Now place one lead of the
meter on the outer cylinder and with the other lead, find the half voltage
point radially towards the inner cylinder. Note this point. It will be close
to the first measured point, but not necessarily the same point! If there is
a difference halve the difference and record.
4.
Measure diametrically the distance from the centre of the innermost cylinder
to the half voltage point as measured plus the difference, if any. Double
this measurement! This is the diameter of the " seed "
circumference. For example on a 4,3,2,1 cylinder cell, the total diameter was
2.24" and for a 5,4,3,2,1 cylinder cell, the total distance was
2.83"
5.
By using the natural logarithm of the height of the cylinder, we can
interpolate and work out our optimum cylinder heights. The formula is: h = e
to the power of d ( h = height of cylinder, e = 2.718281...,d = seed diameter
). All measurements must be in inches. I have worked out some standard size
values for you. You can easily work out your value from the following table.
Cylinder Seed Cylinder Seed
height diameter height diameter
6"
1.79" 13" 2.56"
6.5"
1.87" 13.5" 2.60"
7"
1.95" 14" 2.64"
7.5"
2.01" 14.5" 2.67"
8"
2.08" 15" 2.71"
8.5"
2.14" 15.5" 2.74"
9"
2.20" 16" 2.77"
9.5"
2.25" 16.5" 2.80"
10"
2.30" 17" 2.83"
10.5"
2.35" 17.5" 2.86"
11"
2.40" 18" 2.89"
11.5"
2.44" 18.5" 2.92"
12"
2.48" 19" 2.94"
12.5"
2.53" 19.5" 2.97"
20"
3.00"
6.
So in 4. above, we would use inner cylinders of about 9.4" for the 4
cylinder cell and we would use 17" cylinders for the 5 cylinder cell. If
this height is too long for you, you can use the next submultiple for the
longer cylinders, ie. 8.5" for the 17" cylinders, etc. There is a
corresponding loss in " breeding " output, but as long as your cell
is not too leaky and you are not travelling in a strip of low level Orgone
you should get away with it.
7.
At no stage should you use inner cylinders of a length of less than 7"
of cylinder height for the most common cubic capacity car engines. Of course,
for test cells, you will be able to get away with lower surface area
cylinders. I use 5 inch ( 125 mm. ) high cylinders in my test cell, as this
allows me to use less water during experiments.
Final note on the
above. Many many cells have been built
without going to, or knowing about, the above table and they all work to a
degree, well enough to start the car. As a simple reliable rule that works,
use 7 inch long inner cylinders and a 9 inch long outer
Chapter 8
WATER TYPE AND IT'S
RELATION TO THE CELL
" Water is a living
substance! "
Viktor
Schauberger.
As
seen on the chapter on Orgone polarity, we have the choice of negative
Orgone, positive Orgone or a combination of both. Combined polarity Orgone
cells are more suited for use in real Orgone motors and " anti-gravity
devices " as used by the people in the know, but the funds, time and
permission are out of the realm of the normal back yard experimenter. So as
far as these notes are concerned, scratch that option out. A positive cell
would require alkalies, different insulators, 316S stainless steel and water
with a natural pH of 7 or more. For many reasons, I did not choose to go in
that direction.
As
I will explain shortly, I choose to make only negative cells, and these notes
are based on the construction of negative cells. Do not read negative as not
as good as positive. They perform the identical functions, all that we are
doing is sitting on the left side of a see-saw and not the right side.
What
do I mean by negative or positive cells? Simply stated, a negative cell is
based on acidic water and related materials and a positive cell is based on
alkaline water and related materials.
Water type
As
discovered by many experimenters and holy people, Orgone, or the life force,
loves or has a great affinity for water. Just as well, or we and the rest of
the planet's " living " creations would not be here. So the first
step in our quest to build an accumulator is to provide for whatever we are
trying to accumulate, a container or area where we can accomplish this task.
Okay, I far as I am concerned, we are trying to accumulate Orgone energy,
thus the aim of the game for me, is to provide the most attractive and
pleasant area to allow this energy to gather and then I concentrate, focus
and utilise the energy before finally releasing it back to where it came
from. If we assume for the moment that Orgone will be accumulated by water,
the next question is obvious, what type of water, in what type of container,
how large? etc.
Here
experimenters have gone in all directions and a huge mythology from armchair
experts has developed to show the way to the " blind ". Let me
state from the start that Reich and others have spent their lives telling us
how and what to do. I have compiled a great deal of scientific information,
and as such, I am standing on many great shoulders that have passed before me
to give me a better view of the problem, and I claim no credit. The only
credit I claim is that I have got up from my backside and have actually done
something with this information. So by doing, now I know, like you will, if
you ever make a cell.
So,
as I am dealing with living energies, it makes absolute sense to me to
accumulate these energies in a medium of their choice, ie. in living water!
All water is not just plain old water, nor are all pure waters the same, or
pure. Unfortunately, the experimenter grasps on the word " pure "
and immediately images of " pure " water from the local supermarket
or distilled or rain water or his favourite filtered tap water flashes into
his head. No, No, No! I am deliberately belabouring this point as it is
critical in the construction of easy seeding, breeding and low leakage cells.
Get your water right or stop reading here and use these notes to light fires.
Okay
you say, let's move on, what is this magic water? Pure water means that good
old mankind did not get a chance to " help " the water to make it
better with additives, or the water has not lain around in metal or cement
pipes until we want to use it, nor has it been ripped apart by turbines and
pumps, nor has it lain stagnant and motionless in the Sun, nor has it flowed
next to roads to have all the car combustion heavy metals fall into it, nor
has it flowed underneath high tension power lines, nor has it had all the
guttering from thousands of houses dump their toxins into it, nor has it had
thousands of roads and streets drop its pollutants and waste into it. I mean,
you must be getting the drift by now. The water you drink out of your tap is
dead, distilled water is dead, tank water from roofs, etc. may be dead and
toxic, water you buy from the supermarket is dead, and river and creek water
that you may get downstream after it passes through towns and cities is also
useless.
I
use what I call juvenile or virgin water. By that I mean water that I get at
the start of rivers or creeks. Juvenile water is like a child looking out for
new experiences as it leaps, rolls, swirls and runs in shady, rocky and self
selected pathways. It is the life blood of Mother Earth and a living thing.
It has the ability to store these " pleasant " memories, or
life-beneficial frequencies. I do not have to tell any reader how cold and
how invigorating a mountain stream is. That
is the right water! We do not want the water after it has experienced
the memories and thus the frequencies from mankind's help, unless we can
remove these detrimental memories.
I
have my favourite water catchment area well outside Melbourne, Australia,
where all the above conditions are met. There are no roads, powerlines, dams,
pipes or any man made intrusions, the water flows how and where it wants to
in natural, twisty downhill paths it has created, the whole area is green all
year round and you can feel the vitality and Nature at work. Absolutely
beautiful! No wonder that village people in mountain areas live so long.
From
" Living Water ", a book by Olof Alexandersson:
"...Schauberger
did not approve of pumped sub-surface water as drinking water. This water
forced artificially from the depth was " immature " - it had not
yet passed through the whole of its natural cycle, and therefore in the long
term would be injurious to man, animals, and even plants. Only the water that
runs out from the soil by itself in the form of springs and streams is
suitable as drinking water....Water flowing from a natural source, particularly
a mountain spring, acts in quite a different way. Schauberger found that if
one drank a litre of this water - thus presumably increasing one's weight by
approximately a kilo, - the net increase in weight was in fact only 300-400g.
The remaining water must have been converted directly into energy to the
body, thereby explaining the enormously enlivening quality that this water
gives..."
Again,
the above shows the difference in the energy content of different waters. If
we relate this energy content to negative entropy that the Orgone energy
possesses, we can readily see how it thus combats positive entropy or death
that all bodies strive for. Put in another way we live, and so does the Joe
cell as a result of taking in Orgone energy in many forms, including water.
Also, I would like to distinguish between Schauberger's term " immature
" and my term " juvenile ". Juvenile water is mature water
before it is influenced by the bad memories ( frequencies ) that
good-old-mankind has provided. Immature water is water that has not recorded
the essential frequencies that Mother Nature provides. As such immature water
is not what you should strive for, if you want quick seeding and breeding of
your cells.
pH
The
water I use in its natural state has a pH of 6.5. That means it is slightly
acidic and perfect for the negative cells that I make. I bring this water
home making sure that I protect it from excessive sloshing and the heat of
the sunlight whilst in the car. At home, I store it in 20 litre Pyrex bottles.
Do not store it in plastic containers even if the container is marked "
suitable for water ". Earthenware or wood containers would also be very
suitable.
So
the first thing you need when you find your own magic spot is some 0-14
Litmus paper. This is quite cheap and you can get a small quantity from your
nearest swimming pool supplier. There is no use in buying a $1000.00 pH meter
that is accurate to zillions of decimal places. All you want to know is, if
the water is alkaline or acid.
The
water will be either:
A.
Neutral, ie. pH is approximately 7. In this case the ion level is too low for
electrolysis and you
will
have to add electrolyte. ( See Perfect Science note below ).
B.
Acid, ie. pH varies from 7 down to 1. As this is what we require for a
negative cell, grab some
and
bring it home.
C.
Alkaline, ie. pH varies from 7 to 14. You may make a positive cell with this,
as many people
do.
I personally am not interested, and therefore, I do not cover a positive cell
construction in
these
notes.
Be
wary of any juvenile water with a pH of 5 or less, as the natural water acid
level is getting too high due to pollutants or a high concentration of
minerals. I personally have not used such water and can offer no guidance.
In
the section on cell construction, I cover the stages required to bring this
water to the right " working strength ".
Perfect Science water
I
will give you a brief summary of a talk by Drunvalo Melchezidek, regarding
very wonderful news. The full talk can be found on ( http://www.transformacomm.com/ )
"
... Some Sufi masters in Turkey have presented to the world with a water that
appears to be alive. This water
has different effects on different things. It seems to have an optimal effect
on whatever it touches.
...
This water is called super-ionised water. A company out of Istanbul Turkey,
has been started by Ihan Doyuk, and is called Perfect Science. A 48
million-dollar plant has been built in Turkey to produce 100,000 tons of this
water a day.
...
The only difference is in the number of electrons that are in the outer
orbit. ... it has three extra electrons in the outer orbit.... all the
scientists and physicists and the chemists of the world have been studying
this for the past few years and have been keeping it secret. Not one of them, ... can explain how
it is happening. They don't know! ... it appears as though ... it is
alive and it knows what it's doing!
...
But if you put the wires in super-ionised water, the light bulb comes on. No
one has seen that before. That is impossible by everything that we know. And
there is a flow of electrical energy through the water, that they are
describing as liquid electrons. "
What
is so exciting about the above extract is that the water is conductive with a
pH of 7! This is exactly what the Joe cell experimenter needs for the
electrolysis of the Joe cell without electrolyte. The end result is no more
deposits, large ion flow, lower cell maintenance and a far superior cell as
an Orgone accumulator. A recent quote from Michel Foisy ( michel.foisy@transformacomm.com
), is USD$27.00 for one US gallon and USD$8.50 for air mail shipping. Worth a
thought. I will give at later date, a progress result on the batch that I am
testing.
Gojuice
A
typical and very suitable mixture is described in United States Patent
5,231,954 by Gene. B. Stowe under the production of a hydrogen/oxygen cell.
For
people without Internet I will briefly quote the relevant section;
"...an
electrolyte solution can be made by mixing small quantities of phosphoric
acid ( food grade ), sodium perborate ( to supply extra oxygen), and
acetanilide as a stabiliser, in deionised water or distilled water. The
quantities of these chemicals may be varied between rather wide ranges, the
object being to provide reasonable flow of current between the two
electrodes. "
He
goes on ( in section 6, 65 onwards ), to explain a typical method of making
this mixture. I would suggest that if you made the above, you used juvenile
water for dilution, and that you leave out the stabiliser as it is expensive
and not essential for our needs. The end mixture works extremely well and you
will only have to add a couple of spoonful's of Gojuice to achieve 1 Amp of
current flow at 12 Volts in you car or test cell.
General notes
It
should now be self explanatory that constructors that use water without
knowing the pH and then mix it with various chemistry, eg. " caustic
soda ", an alkaline that is popular ( probably because every house has
some ) and dubious insulator materials, are doomed to failure. Caustics just
loves to chew at insulators. Believe me, stay with mild acids.
You
may use vinegar or acetic acid that you use for cleaning the stainless steel
and kill two birds with one stone. I personally have made my own mix that I
call " Gojuice " as explained above. Acetic acid or vinegar is
fine, but, please note that
if you use vinegar, as the quantity of vinegar added to the cell is quite
large, ( by volume ) you will have to be careful that the vinegar was made
with the " right " water. This would be highly unlikely, so it
should be used as a last resort. With acetic acid make sure that it is 90%
acetic acid and if you obtain it from a photography chemical supplier, make
sure that there is no stabiliser or indicator included in the mixture. It is
because of the dubious nature of the water that is used for the vinegar and
acetic products that I have taken the far more expensive path of using
Gojuice.
In
closing let me say, that it would be absolutely stupid to get naturally
acidic water then electrolyse it with an alkaline and then complain that you
are getting sludge formations and the cell does not work.
cylinder
for a 4 cylinder cell. Use 8 inch long inner cylinders and a 10 inch long
outer cylinder for a 5 cylinder cell.
Chapter 9
CHARGING THE WATER
" When water is agitated
and coiled, radio-axially, with light, heat and air excluded,
diamagnetic forces are
generated.
Viktor
Schauberger.
You
are reading this chapter because, you now have a container of the right water
and you are ready to pour it into your test cell, or your car cell.
Preparation
You
will need the following:
*
A multimeter with an amperage range that can read up to at least 2 Amperes.
The
same multimeter or a meter that can read up to 20 Volts direct current.
The
same multimeter or a meter that can read up to at least 10 Megohms
resistance.
*
A funnel with a built in filter or a normal funnel into which you can place a
paper coffee filter.
*
Your chosen electrolyte.
*
A battery charger or similar that can supply about 4 Amperes at approximately
12 Volts. Most battery chargers put out much more but, at this stage, it is
not critical . You may alternatively want to use a fully charged 12 Volt
battery or a power supply. The aim is to have a reproducible voltage with an output current capability of
about 2 Amperes.
*
A pair of leads that you can clip from the power source to your cell. I would
strongly suggest that you identify your leads and clips, so that you will not
reverse your polarity to the cell. We want to always place the negative lead to the bottom of the centre
cylinder and the positive lead to the top of the outermost cylinder.
*
A working area where the cell can be left undisturbed for a period of time,
in the worst case, 4 weeks. I know, I know, you are in a hurry! But
unfortunately for you, Mother Nature has infinite time and she is in control
of this project.
*
A top, lid, or some way of sealing of the cell from air. Now, I am not
recommending an airtight seal, even a lid loosely sitting on top of your test
jar is sufficient. The seeding and breeding process is hampered by having too
great an area of the top of the cell being exposed to air. All lids are not
the same as regards to being a obstruction to Orgone. If the lid does not
seem to be working, place a layer of aluminium foil ( as used in kitchen
stoves ) underneath the lid and use the foil and lid as one unit.
The charging process
pH The aim is to modify the conductivity
of your water by the addition of acid, ( in this case ) so as to get a
suitable and repeatable current flow. If we used de-ionised water with a pH
of 7.0, we would have a very low current flow for our electrolysis, and would
have to add something to increase the conductivity of the water if we wanted
observable results in a short period of time. As we change our pH either
higher ( alkaline ) or lower ( acid ) away from a pH of 7.0, our current flow
and electrolysis process will increase together with the resultant heat
increase and the stripping and plating of the metals from the cylinders.
We
are trying to achieve electrolysis action with the minimum heat generation
and also the minimum metal removal from our cylinders. Also please note as
mentioned previously, the propagation of Orgone is reasonably slow, thus
there is not much to be achieved with excessive current ( and thus
electrolysis ). Slow and steady does it, just like in Nature. For the patient
experimenter or one that is using neat water, ie. water without electrolyte,
excellent results are achieved with currents as low as 50 m/Amps.
As
we are only interested in acid cells in this manual, our pH will be 7.0 or
lower. You will find that to get a current flow of 1 Amp at 12 Volts, your pH
will be very close to a pH of 2 to 3. The importance of the pH reading was only relevant during the choosing of the
right water as per Chapter 7. In this chapter there is no further use for
pH readings during the charging process.
Whilst
on the topic of pH, an experimenter has found that with the use of a very
expensive digital pH meter, he is able to tell the state of charge of the
cell. This theory is not 100% verified at the moment, but is mentioned for
the sake of completeness.
Steps
1.
Have your cell sitting on a wooden work bench or on a sheet of plastic type
material or, as a last resort, on a newspaper. We are trying to insulate the
cell from metal paths that may impede the seeding process.
2.
Now with you meter set to read resistance, preferably on your highest
resistance scale, read the resistance from the inner to the outer cylinder of
you cell. It should be in the high Megohm range. If not, your insulators are
conductive and you did not follow the previous cell construction
recommendations. Remove offending insulators, reassemble carefully, measure
and move on.
3.
If all is okay in the above step, fill the cell via your funnel with the
enclosed filter. Next, and this is
critical, fill it only level with the top of the cylinders and no
more! The effect that you want to create is a set of water cells separated by
metal cylinders. These are your alternate organic and non-organic chambers.
Of course the submerged section of you chambers are flooded, but with this
simple cell, the top will be doing all the work .Now you may also realise why
the cylinders have to match on the top, as otherwise the meniscus formed by
the water would not work and the water would flow from compartment to
compartment. This level is only critical during the seeding process, as we
require maximum Orgone capture to seed the cell. Naturally, with a charged
cell, the water is sloshing all over the place whilst you are driving your
car. Joe did say that during charging, the water would find its own level and
then use no more. So with long periods of electrolysis, you would find that
the above described level is where you would end up with anyway and then the
cell would start seeding. With my method, by starting at the right level, you
will not waste hours of time creating steam, oxygen, hydrogen and chemical
deposits as a result of electrolysis.
4.
Turn on the power supply, and if it is adjustable, set it to 12 Volts.
Connect the positive end of your power source to the top of the outer
cylinder. Connect the negative end of your power source to one end of your
meter that is set up to read a minimum of 2 Amperes. Connect the other end of
the meter to the bottom of the central cylinder. What we have simply done is
set up the meter to read any current flow into your cell from the power source.
At this stage, if your water is close to a pH of 7, as previously discussed,
the current flow will be zero, or in the low m/Amp region. If you are reading
Amps, you are doing something
wrong! Contrary to what " experts " tell you, it is
impossible to draw huge current from pure water ( unless it is Perfect
Science water ) . Think about it. To draw even 1 Amp at 12 Volts, the
resistance of the water would have to be, by Ohms law, 12 Ohms! No way! You
are doing something wrong. Find the problem and then move on.
5.
Presuming that you only read m/Amps, you now want to introduce electrolyte to
electrolyse your cell. The aim is to get a standard current flow for your
electrolysis. To do this, drip a small amount of your chosen electrolyte into
the cell water whilst stirring and watching your Amp meter. Use a glass or
Perspex or wood dowel rod for the stirrer, do not use your handy
paint-stirring screw driver! Throw away you wood dowel when finished as it
will absorb chemistry. Do plenty of gentle stirring of the water as you add
the electrolyte, otherwise you will add too much electrolyte! Stop adding
electrolyte when the meter indicates 1 Amp. Your water level may rise as a
consequence of the addition of electrolyte. Remove some water out of you
cell. I use a pipette, so as not to disturb the cell. Remove enough water to
again just expose the top of the cylinders. At this stage, disconnect
your meter and power source and have a bit of a clean up as the next stages
are observation.
The
charging process is separated in three distinct stages that I call Stage 1, 2
and 3. These stages have some obvious differences and also some subtle ones .
With experience you will know immediately if the cell is charged, but in your
early attempts you will have to rely on my photographs and description or
visit someone with a working cell. Do not listen to armchair scientists. One
look is worth a thousand words.
For
the rest of your charging process, you will be only connecting your power
source to the cell for a maximum of 5 minutes at a time. As Orgone lags
electricity by about 30 seconds, you will know the state of the cell in less
than a minute. Do not be tempted to
leave the power connected to the cell for long periods! Yes, I know
that you are in a hurry and more is better, but in this case you only
generate heat, steam, waste power and overheat the cell. You can pick the
failures by seeing their cells running non-stop for days with 20 or more amps
turning the water to steam, etching the cylinders and ending up with a barrel
full of scum. What else would you expect? After all, electrolysis is time and
current related. If you have had the misfortune of having your cell left on
for a long period with high current, you have probably destroyed your
cylinders. You cannot polish this etching or plating out. Yes, you throw the
cell away and start again. I bet you don't do it next time!
DANGER! Do not charge any
cell that is totally sealed! The cell will explode, with all the related
consequences. Always remove the lid or unplug the car cell before doing any
charging. I repeat, an airtight seal
IS NOT REQUIRED! At no stage do I prescribe any form of airtight
container.
Stage
1. This stage is plain old electrolysis. Due to us passing a direct current
through a liquid that contains ions, chemical changes will occur. In our
case, you will see small bubbles and a cloud of activity that is greater
nearest the outside of the inner negative cylinder. The important observation
points are that the activity is greatest nearest the central cylinder and
gets progressively less as we move outward via the different chambers formed
by the rest of the cylinders. Additionally, within a short period of turning
the power off, all activity stops, the water becomes clear and the bubbles
disappear.
Summary
stage 1. Every fool and his dog gets to this
stage. The secret is not to increase the electrolyte and thus the current
and/or leaving the cell on for days on end. Be patient, leave the cell on for
no longer than 5 minutes, turn the power source off, remove the leads to the
cell, and put the top on the test cell, or partially block off the exit of
the car cell. It does not have to be airtight! Go and do something else. It
is like waiting for a tree to grow from the seed. Do this on a daily basis
for days or a week or longer until you get to stage 2. You will find that the
more " alive " the water is , the quicker is the seeding of the
cell. I have found that the storage, age, and source of the water all affect
the seeding speed. I have also found that by changing the structure of the
water by various means eg. vortexing, shaking, filtering, etc., you can
greatly enhance the water quality to make it more " alive ".
Stage
2. You will now notice on your initial powering up of the cell, that the
bubbles are getting larger and the white cloud of tiny bubbles in the water
are much smaller or more transparent. Also in stage 1, you had the action
occurring mainly in the proximity of the central cylinder. Now the bubbles
form in a regular fashion irrespective of location in the cell. More
importantly, on turning the power off from the cell, the bubbles do not go
away immediately but stay there for minutes rather than seconds as in stage
1. Also, the top of the water assumes a glazed look and the meniscus is
higher due to a change in the surface tension of the water. At this stage you
may have some brownish material amongst your bubbles. Don't panic. It is only
the impurities being removed from the cell. I find that if I wipe the top
surface of the water with a paper towel, the bubbles and the deposit will
adhere to the paper and can easily be removed. Top up the cell, if required,
after the above cleaning, so that again, only the top edge of the cylinders
are just showing.
Note. All topping up of
the cell at any stage is done with plain juvenile water only. No more
electrolyte is added! In cleaning the top of the cell as described, it has
been observed that some people react unfavourably with the cell. If so, keep that
person away, or if it is you, try changing you hand ie. use your right
instead of your left or vice verse. If the presence of your hand seems to
collapse the surface bubbles, I would suggest you have a friend do the work
for you.
Summary
stage 2. Very similar to stage 1, but now we
have a more even bubble distribution and an increase of surface tension and a
longer presence of the bubbles when the power is turned off. If you look in
the bottom of your glass test cell, you will have no scum and the water will
be crystal clear.
At
this stage the Orgone force has seeded the cell, but as yet, is not breeding.
With the right cell, water and operator, it is possible to go straight to
stage 2 on the first turn on of your new cell. I have this occurring every time
with modified juvenile water.
3.
Not many people get to this stage, or what is worse, get here incorrectly. If
you get here following the above steps, your water is still crystal clear
with no deposits in the sump. If you get here by brute force, you will have
stripped appreciable amounts of material from the cylinders and this material
will now deposit on the insulators and hang around as a colloid and finally
form in the sump as a deposit. The low resistance insulators and the metallic
colloid will create a more leaky cell that will cause endless mysterious car
stoppages or refusal of the car to start etc. Right, the miracle of Nature is
now breeding in your cell. Upon turning your power on to the cell, within 30
seconds copious beautiful white bubbles will rise from all the surface area
of the cell. Before these bubbles cover the water surface, you will notice a
slowly rotating and pulsing front in all cylinders, that is synchronised and
has a regular rhythm of about 2 pulses per second and a clockwise rotation
speed of about 1 revolution every 2 seconds. These effects are very hard to
observe for a first time viewer that does not know what to look for. I find
it easier to watch these effects with the aid of a fluorescent light, as the
100 cycles per second pulsations of the light " strobe " the water
surface and help the observation.
The
bubbles may overflow the container and show great surface tension. But one of
the definite proofs that the cell is breeding is that, on turning the power
source off and coming back the next day, most of the bubbles will still be on
top of the water as opposed to stage 1 or stage 2 where they disappeared in
minutes. Please have a look at my photo sequence.
Summary
stage 3. There is no way that you can mistake this stage once you
have seen it. Some lucky people can feel the living energy and can react with
it, Reich's " Y factor ". For the rest of you normal people, the
signs are radically different. The bubbles are larger and pure white, the
surface tension is greater, the bubbles are pulsating and most importantly
the surface tension remains days after the power has been removed.
Additional note for the
desperate electronically inclined individual. Please note. I do not recommend
any additional tests or measurements, your eyes and brains should suffice,
but if you are in trouble, you may measure the voltage across the cell after
it has been left standing with the power off for at least 24 hours. A live
cell will have a residual voltage, or more correctly, a self generated voltage
of around 1 Volt. A stage 1 cell measured under similar conditions will read
.1 to .2 of a Volt. Remember, that unless you know what you are doing, these
voltage measurements can be very misleading due to probe materials and
battery effects that can easily mask your true measurement. As the cell
reaches the maximum density of Orgone that it can hold, the result of the
breeding process is the conversion of this excess Orgone into the formation
of electricity. As such, electrical measurement with the correct instruments
is a very valuable method in the verification of the efficiency of the cell.
If you are conversant with Reich's work, you may care to make an Orgone meter
and thus remove all guesswork. This meter is fully described on a few web
site as mentioned in my bibliography.
Final comments on charging the cell
I
do not recommend any form of circus type of bubble exploding, ear pulling
showmanship. As noted elsewhere, noise and vibration are Orgone-negative.
Therefore, in a negative Orgone cell like the ones I make, these explosions
applied during the delicate seeding period will kill your cell! Apart from a
dead cell, the chance of fire igniting other gasses in the workshop and
injuries to the ears etc. makes this childish exercise highly unnecessary. I
must admit that I too fell for the " go on, ignite it! " feeling. I
had a cell that had been at stage 3 for 7 months. It was my favourite test
cell. My hands and matches fought my brain and they won. There was a huge
" ear-pulling, implosion/ explosion ", and yes, I killed the cell.
It went back to stage 2 for 4 days. I will not do it again, just showing you
that I am also human. On the plus side, my resident garage brush tail possum
has not returned!
Special stage 3 water,
( referred to in chapter 11. )
As
all water we are using so far has been electrolysed, this water is not
suitable for use in non-stainless steel or glass containers due to reaction
with the container and the resultant corrosion, but if you have to, or want
to, you can use juvenile water with no electrolysers added and still charge
it to stage 3. As the ion count is much lower, the water is not as
conductive, ie. you cannot get as much current flow with 12 Volts as you
would if you electrolysed the water. However, if you obtain a power supply of
approximately 60 to 100 Volts at about 1 Amp, you will be able to charge
" plain old ordinary water ".
The
down side is the additional waiting, in some cases, over 3 weeks, and the
cost of the fairly expensive power supply. The advantage as mentioned in
chapter 11, is that you will be
able to pour it into the radiator of a car with no increase in corrosion as
compared to water containing acids.
Miscellanea
Do
not at any stage short circuit, ie. join any of the cell cylinders to each
other electrically with your charging leads, wedding ring, etc. If you do,
the cell will " die! ". Your only option, if this occurs, is to
connect the cell to your power source and see if you are still running in
stage 3. If the cell does not revert to running in stage 3 mode within 1
minute, your only option is to completely dismantle the cell and re-polish,
re-clean and re-charge. Huh???, you are kidding us, right??? No, I am
serious, that is your only
option! So do not do it, do not short out your cell! You will have similar,
but not as severe problems if you reverse your leads to the cell.
When
the cell is running stage 3, you can tip the charged water out of the cell
into a glass container and clean, adjust or maintain your now empty cell. Try
to keep all cylinders in the same relation they were in before you dismantled
the cell, ie. keep all cylinders the same way round and in the same radial
alignment. Mainly relevant when dismantling old cells ( over 6 months old ).
This is required as the metal parts develop a working relationship that can
be weakened or destroyed by careless re-assembly.
When
finished, pour the charged water back and you are back in business. Of course
you can pour this charged water into other cells, or use it as you see fit,
but, remember, do not leave it out of the cell for periods longer than 1 hour
at a time as the breeding has now stopped and you are slowly losing charge.
Remember
what you are dealing with. You are not making a toaster! You are dealing with
the basic life force itself. As it is everywhere and penetrates all things at
different speeds, you cannot imprison it or capture it. If it seeds your
cell, it is because it has found the " womb " that you have made, a
more comfortable place than where it was before. It has entered and remained
of its own free choice. Similarly, if it decides to breed for you, again it
is it's choice. As you are part of the process, the least that you can do is
to positively interact with it. There are many accounts of cell dying due to
locations and personalities involved. You have been warned!
Chapter 10
CELL CONNECTION TO
MOTORS AND MOTOR MODIFICATION
" The essential is to get
rid of deeply rooted prejudices we often repeat without examining them "
A. Michel 1959.
Cell location and mounting
The
mounting of the cell is full of compromises, both for the cell and the
occupants of the car.
*
For least vibration and tilt, the center of the car is the best location.
*
For least heat accumulation, low down in the interior of the car is the best
location.
*
For least electro-magnetic disturbance, the boot is the best ( unless there
are CD stackers,
radio
gear or electric fuel pumps in the boot area ).
*
For best Orgone flow, the cell should be as close as possible to the motor,
and the outlet should have only a vertical path to the blind plug.
*
For cell servicing, it should be in the boot or similar easy access points.
*
To keep human interaction to the minimum, the rear bumper bar is the best
location.
*
To keep interaction with other cars to a minimum, the center of the car is
the best location.
*
To keep the outlet pipe to a minimum length, right next to the block is the
best position.
*
To minimise interference with the car electronics, a roof location is best.
As
you can see, even in the brief list above, there is no one location that is
ideal. The very best compromise is placing the cell in the foot-well on the
passenger side, and having a hole through the bulkhead with a short tube run
to the blind plug on the block. If you choose this position, please note:
*
This may be dangerous in an accident and thus illegal, and you must obtain
the approval from
the
related instrumentalities.
*
The hole through the bulkhead must be gas-tight as there is a danger of
lethal gasses entering
the
occupant area. Again, the related permits are mandatory.
*
The location of the cell may interfere with any car computer that is located
in this area.
*
The passenger may interact with the cell.
*
It will reduce your resale values due to the holes.
*
Your insurance company will have to be notified with a logical explanation
for your
handwork.
The
second, less frowned upon location, is in a cold area of the engine
compartment. This is just about impossible in a compact car, unless you have
an older 6 or 8 cylinder model.
That
is why I have said it is better to choose a car suited to run on a Joe cell,
rather that trying to run your modern 4 cylinder front wheel drive compact
from it. Your chances of a successful first-up conversion of a fuel injected,
variable cam timing, turbo, computer controlled and twin overhead cam compact
4 cylinder car is minimal.
The
mounting of the cell, once the position is chosen is not difficult. The
simplest and most permanent method is to use the half inch negative bolt as
one of the fixtures for the cell. As this bolt is the negative connection, it
can be directly bolted through the floor or via a convenient piece of metal
plate to a suitable point in the engine compartment. The cell itself should
be surrounded by an insulating material similar to a computer mouse mat or
diving suit material. Around this you would have two hose clips to hold the
body of the cell against some rigid part of the car. The aim is to stop the
cell developing its own vibration that is additional to the vibration
generated by the engine and the road conditions. All parts of the cell must be well clear of any
metal parts at all times as the cell body has a positive potential on it. If
you accidentally touch a charged cell body to any metal parts of the car, you
will probably have to recharge the cell, and you know what a pain that can
be.
To
summarise the above, the cell must be firmly fixed in the best possible
location and protected from any accidental contact with any metal parts of
the car. Any car modifications must have the approval of the relevant
government bodies.
NOTE. I am presuming
that you have a reasonably modern car that has the negative end of the car
battery connected to the bodywork, ie. a negative earth system. If you have
an older positive system car, then to the best of my knowledge, you will have
problems, and I suggest that you do not attempt a conversion of a positive
earth system car. As most of these have gone to car heaven, there should not
be too many around. A good indicator is that the car runs a generator instead
of an alternator, but this rule only applies most of the time, and
there are exceptions.
Cell electrical connections
Negative
connection.
The
above section has mentioned that we are dealing with negative earth cars.
This means that the negative end of the battery is connected to all the metal
work of the car. As the inner one inch cylinder and the included bolt are the
negative end of the cell, this bolt may be connected to any substantial metal
part of the car. Make sure that you remove any paint or sound-deadening
material from the hole that you have drilled for the half inch bolt, and use
a star washer on both sides of the hole in the metal work to guarantee a long
lasting low resistance connection.
Positive
connection.
All
parts of the cell and engine tube are at a positive potential. The best point
to connect our positive is at the far end of the engine tube. I connect my
positive lead under the four inch long section of neoprene hose ( between the
aluminium tube and the hose ), and secure the cell end ONLY of the rubber tube with a stainless steel worm drive
clip. This creates a good electrical connection between the lead and the
cell-to-engine tube. This positive lead should go via a five amp fuse in
series to the " ignition on " power distribution. What this means
is that there is only power to the cell when the ignition key is in the
normal car running position. As the cell has been made to only pass one Amp,
the resultant power consumption of the cell with the car running will be 12
Watts. This is a fairly conservative cell dissipation, but will eventually
heat up the cell on a long trip and a hot day. Please read Regulation
section below.
When
the car is not in use, and depending on the leakage of the cell, you may
require a " trickle charge " current to flow through the cell to
maintain a minimal breeding condition. Joe employed a 1.5 Volt battery to
accomplish this in his early days. I would suggest a current flow of 0.25
Amps to accomplish this. This is a power dissipation of 3 Watts. If you
connect a resistor of about 3 Ohms in series with you positive lead, you will
achieve the above. This value will vary from cell to cell and you will have
to select on test the actual resistor to be used. In all cases a 4 or 5 Watt
wire wound resistor of the appropriate resistance value will be adequate.
Make sure that this resistor is suitably mounted as it will get warm and you
don't want to start a fire.
Regulation.
As
you can see from the above, we already have two values of current flow ( a
running value and a trickle charge ). The simplest way to achieve this would
be a changeover switch that introduces a series resistor when the car is not
running. But, as most people will forget to operate this switch every time
they turn the engine off, an automatic system is far superior and probably
essential. This is easily achieved with a relay connected to the "
ignition on " distribution. With this method, when the car ignition is
off, the relay is released and the appropriate resistor is in series with the
positive lead and the cell. The cell now only has the trickle charge current
flowing through it. When the ignition is in the run position, the relay now
operates, and the resistor is shorted out by the relay contacts. The cell now
has the full 1 Amp flowing through it. Obviously, when the ignition is turned
off, the cell reverts back to the keep alive current mode.
During
the early experimental and development stages, I would recommend a variable 5
Ohm, 5 Watt, wire wound potentiometer and a series 0-5 Amp ammeter. With this
system you will be able to optimise you running and trickle charge currents
and finally choose the optimum resistors for both modes. Also, you will be
able to find exactly how much current you need for optimum cell output to
suit the climatic and driving conditions. The reason is, that as the cell
heats up it draws more current. Yes, you will have to experiment!
Cell-to-engine tube
Previously,
I have mentioned that I use 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outside diameter aluminium
tube. The inside diameter of the tube is ¾ " , so the wall thickness is
1/8 ". I am not telling you that this is the only diameter or material
that works. It is the material and diameter that others, including myself
have standardised on to allow for ease of interchangeability for fault
finding and experimentation. The length of this tube should be as short as
possible without using sharp bends. All bends in the tube must have smooth
and progressive direction changes with no distortions. The tube should be
covered with insulation similar to what is used on hot water pipes and car
roof racks. Reduce any horizontal runs of the tube to a minimum. Similarly,
do not use any U-bends that forces the Orgone to change directions from an
upward to a downward run. A good example of how not to mount the cell is seen
on the amigo web site ( http://homepages.tig.com.au/~amigo_s/joe.htm
). In the photographs, this cell is mounted above the car with a severe
downhill run to the motor. Although aluminium is a good barrier for Orgone,
the energy is still leaking out the tube. As you now know, Orgone has a
upward vertical tendency and therefore the best position for the Joe cell is
as low as possible, so the Orgone can flow upwards to the blind plug and thus
the motor. In most engine installations, you will need some " downward
run " of the tube. It will still work, but keep any of these runs to a
minimum. The inside edges of the cell end of the aluminium tube must have a
radius that reduces gradually from 20 mm. inside diameter to the outside 24
mm. diameter of the tube. So if we are looking up the inside of the cone
towards the compression fitting and the aluminium tube, there should be no
sudden change of diameter to upset the flow of the Orgone. This area, where
we are forcing the Orgone to create a beam that goes down the aluminium tube,
is critical. Keep all inside surfaces polished and do not have any
obstructions whatsoever in the flow path.
The
engine end of the tube has a section of about 4 inches of neoprene rubber
hose pushed over the aluminium tube and the blind plug. If you have 1 inch
length of tube on the blind plug and 1 inch length of tube over the aluminium
tube, you end up with a non metallic gap length of 2 inches. This gap is
vital as the motor is at negative potential and the aluminium tube is at
positive potential. We must never let any portion of the cell or tube touch
any part of the car or motor. That is why I have suggested that you should
insulate your cell and tube.
I
have mentioned previously that our positive lead is under the 4 inch rubber
sleeve and is held secure to the aluminium tube by means of a worm drive
clip. The blind plug end of the 4
inch tube must not have any form of clip on it! This end of the
rubber sleeve performs the function of a one way valve for the Joe cell. When
you push the rubber sleeve over the blind plug, please make sure that you
cover the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the blind plug with
Vaseline ( Petroleum jelly ).The following will now occur. As a result of
electrolysis in the cell, every now and then, the excess cell pressure will
vent to the atmosphere via the loose coupling between the rubber sleeve and
the blind plug. But when the pressure drops, air will not be sucked back into
the cell. I have found that this valve enhances the duration of the breeding
process. I repeat, the blind plug end of the neoprene 4 inch sleeve
must be free to allow the release of excessive pressure build-up. If you keep
your cell electrolysis to 1 Amp or less, this venting is minimal. All the
same, the gasses are explosive, so take the appropriate safeguards. Imagine
what would happen if the cell could not vent excessive pressure. The pressure
in the cell will keep building up until the weakest point lets go. This, in
all probability, would be the rubber sleeve. If you were super stupid and really
clamped and glued the hose down at each end, the tube will sustain over 100
psi before letting go. This would release a high pressure stream of HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE GASSES! This
could be ignited by the distributor points, cigarettes, static electricity,
exhaust system, etc. PEOPLE COULD
BE KILLED OR SERIOUSLY INJURED!!! Please, if you are not competent,
don't do it, or seek a professional. Read my disclaimer!
The
optimum and smart solution, is to use a 1 psi blow-off-valve that vents the
waste gas into the air intake after the air cleaner. The waste gas
will now be drawn into the motor and the air cleaner will act as a flame
arrester. That is the smart, safe and logical solution. I use a low pressure
electrical switch/pressure assembly as used on washing machines to monitor
the quantity of water in the wash bowl. I set this switch to operate at 2
psi. When the pressure switch operates, it electrically operates an air
solenoid that allows the excess pressure from the cell to be vented into the
intake manifold between the air cleaner and carburettor.
The
only other danger is that you did not follow my instructions, or you have
decided that you know best, or more is better, and you boosted up the
electrolysis action. A such, you will have excessive venting, and sooner or
later, you and your experiment will part, suddenly and violently. Please,
please, put you brain into gear before playing around with explosive
mixtures, or better still, leave it to professionals
Blind plug location
First
and foremost, the 1 inch long section of the blind plug that the neoprene
tube slips on, must have the same
outside diameter as the inside diameter of the neoprene tube.
Therefore, if you are using 24 mm. outside diameter tubing and the inside
diameter of the tube is 20 mm., then the outside diameter of the blind plug
must be also 24 mm. The neoprene sleeve ( 24 mm. inside diameter ) must not
be a force fit onto the blind plug. Do not economise or compromise this fit.
Your life and the life of others may be on the line! The sleeve must be an
easy push fit over the blind plug. The blind plug should be made out of
aluminium and the final shape will be determined on the mounting location on
the motor. The aim is to introduce the Orgone " beam " of energy as
centrally as possible on the motor and as close as possible to the water that
is circulated around the cylinders. There have been many location employed,
and they all work to a degree, ie. a blind plug on the intake manifold, a
blind plug on the back of the head, a blind plug on the block, etc. My
suggestion for 4 and 6 cylinder motors is to place the blind plug on the
block near the head gasket line and as central as possible ( midway between
the cylinders ). The V8 cylinder motor design is ideal as the blind pug can
be centrally located on the water heated part of the intake manifold. Be
careful with older 4 and 6 cylinder motors as one side may have the push
rods, tappets and cam shaft located inside the block. As such, you will not
be placing your blind plug against the water jacket. Sometimes you may be
able to remove the Welsh plug from the optimum location and machine one end
of the blind plug to fit this circular opening. Make sure that you do a
professional job of this, as a plug that falls out means a loss of all water
and probably the motor! Some individuals claim that they have placed the
blind plug on the carburettor or even the air cleaner. I have my doubts, but
as I have not verified these claims, they may be adequate, but in my view far
from optimised. There is a story of a professor that made a Joe cell as a
replacement for the air cleaner and it worked for a while until it collapsed
due to the stainless steel being too thin. Again, I cannot verify this story,
but it would be an ideal method of eliminating the engine pipe and blind plug
entirely. Just some more ideas for the fertile brains that may be reading
this manual.
I
suggest that you secure your blind plug via two Allen bolts and suitable
tapped holes on your chosen location. Make sure that the mounting surface of
the blind plug matches the contour of the block or head or manifold at the
chosen fixing point.
The
blind plug must be mounted on the opposite side of the exhaust system on
cross-flow-head motors. This is another reason why the V8 motor or a
horizontally opposed motor is so superior in its conversion to Orgone energy.
We want to stay as far away from the hot and exit side of the motor as
possible. If you have a siamesed exhaust and intake manifold motor, you are
really making it difficult for yourself. Unless you know exactly what you are
doing and have performed a previous conversion to give you faith in yourself,
I honestly think that you will not have any success.
You
can again see from the above why Joe's Rover started first up on the cell,
yet other motors took weeks to condition before any results were achieved.
Ignition timing
Volumes
have been written about this topic by arm chair scientist who try to explain
their pet theories on implosion, explosion, both implosion and explosion, or
any other pet combination you may care to think of, and therefore have to
shift the timing anywhere in the 720 degree engine cycle to make the motor
run on their theoretical mind projections.
I
will again repeat, forget the theories and JUST DO IT! It is really simple. I will again tell you how
I do it. Preferably have a car that has an electrical fuel pump and a switch
that you can turn the pump off with. If you have a mechanical pump, fit some
type of adjustable clamp on the neoprene line that goes from the tank to the
fuel pump input. Or you may want to suck the fuel into the fuel pump from a 5
litre metal petrol container.
NOTE, this method is dangerous as
you are working with exposed petrol.
Whatever
system you adopt, all you are trying to do is to control the flow of petrol
to the motor.
Next,
loosen the clamp that holds the distributor, but do not as yet shift the distributor body.
*
Start the car on petrol and let it warm up. Make sure that your Joe cell is
electrolysing.
*
Let the engine warm up and make sure that it is hot enough so that the choke
has gone to the
normal
running position
*
Remove the fuel flow to the engine by your chosen method.
*
Within a short period of time the car will start to run erratically.
*
Rotate the distributor to advance the spark plug firing until you get the
best possible idle speed.
*
Keep doing this with progressively smaller and smaller to and fro rotations
of the distributor body over the next few minutes. The last adjustment will
be very precise as the engine will falter either side of the optimum
adjustment.
*
You will find that the distributor will roughly end up at between 35 and 40
degrees before top dead centre ( BTDC ), which converts to 70 to 80 degrees
advance on the crankshaft.
If
your cell has taken over, your engine will keep running. If the cell has not
taken over, the engine will stop as it will run out of fuel and that is it.
Go to the fault finding section. If the cell has taken over, tighten the
distributor at its new location. When the excitement wears off and if you are
still sober, take the car to a garage with a wheel dynamometer and optimise
the engine timing for maximum power Do not let the mechanic anywhere near
your exhaust system with a gas analyser, as there will be no reading on his
gas analyser and you will really have to do some fancy explaining.
Standard ignition timing
I
would now like to clarify a few points on ignition timing for non-mechanical
individuals.
*
In all spark ignition engines, it is necessary to arrange for the spark to
occur a little before the piston has reached the upper limit of its travel of
the compression stroke. It is usual to express this ignition advance
requirement in terms of degrees of crank angle before top dead centre. ( BTDC
).
The
danger of this term is that it can be measured at either the crankshaft or at
the distributor. As the distributor runs off the cam shaft and thus at half
engine speed, the distributor measurement will be exactly half the crankshaft
measurement. So when we talk of 10 degrees BTDC at the distributor, we really
mean 20 degrees BTDC at the crankshaft. This misunderstanding has caused huge
confusions for the casual non-informed reader. For example, when Joe states
that the Escort runs the best at 85 degrees of advance, what is he talking
about?
As
mentioned at the start of this sub-section, a spark plug ignites once every
720 crankshaft degrees or more simply, every two revolutions. At idle, most
motors are set to fire the spark plug at between 5 and 15 degrees BTDC at the
crank shaft. As the revolutions or the motor increase, the distributor
mechanical advance section or the car computer, advances the timing ( or
makes it fire sooner ) until we reach an advance of about 35 degrees BTDC at
the crankshaft for normal motors and normal fuels. With 100 octane aviation
type fuels, this advance on racing cars can be as great as 60 degrees BTDC.
So
really, when Joe states that 85 degrees of advance is required for an Escort
motor running on a Joe cell, it is no big deal as it is very close to a
setting required for an engine that is running a high octane, slower burning
fuel. It does not even remotely hint at implosion or the like.
To
conclude, as we do not know exactly how and what powers the motor, all
academic armchair rubbish is exactly that; rubbish. Make your cell, connect
it as I recommend, time it as I recommend, get the car running, and then
start your analysis and arm chair battles.
Motor modifications
For
the initial start up from the Joe cell, an aluminium V8 motor will not
require any modifications apart from a change in timing as described in the
previous sub-section. Other motors will require a varying time of "
conditioning " before being finally ready to run on the Joe cell. Then
you will have to change the ignition timing as described.
As
the Orgone energy is primarily attracted to the water jacket around the
motor, most of the energy will be " stored " in a latent state in
this area. That is not to say that there will not be a varying density of
Orgone in other sections of the motor or in the nearby vicinity of the cell
and of the car.
Joe
does make quite a few references to what he call a " sealed engine
", as is the case with the Rover motor and most modern motors as well.
Basically if you remove the oil filler cap, you should notice that the idle
revolutions of the motor will change, as you have disturbed the positive
crankcase ventilation ( PCV ) path. In older motors, the blow-by gasses that
passed the rings and ended up in the crankcase were dumped via a breather
pipe directly into the atmosphere. These type of motors were not "
sealed ". As the pollution laws slowly changed around the world, these
type of blow-by products were frowned upon and the car manufacturers had to
come up with an alternative method for their disposal. The modern solution is
to collect these blow-by products, and re-introduce them into the inlet
manifold via a PCV valve, for their subsequent mixing with the fuel mixture
and resultant combustion. If, for example, you remove the dip stick or the
oil filler cap, you have effectively opened this system which is under
atmospheric pressure, and you thus change the idle speed, as you have
introduced an air leak on the engine side of the carburettor or fuel
injection butterfly throttle control. You have also interfered with the
Orgone density and its relationship with the air! Remember how I have
been harping on for you to keep the top on the test cell when it is not in
use? Well, the engine is just a larger more complex test cell. We do not want to introduce our Orgone
energy to external air until we are ready! And we are only ready,
when the piston goes down the bore creating a depression and thus causing an
external flow of air to come in via the intake valve.
If
you are having trouble in getting the motor to run on a Joe cell and have
exhausted all other possible areas of problems, please also consider the
internal crankcase ventilation system as explained. You will only have
problems in this area with a fairly old motor, or a motor that has been
modified or that has developed a fault with the PCV system. Simply try the
" remove the oil filler cap trick ".
Beyond
the initial short term test running of the motor on the Joe cell, each motor
and car will develop its own type of idiosyncrasies. As my personal list of
converted cars is very small, I have very limited guidance for you in this
area. I will mention the little that I know in this area and at least start a
list that can be added to when YOU
and others give me feedback on your own conversions that I can use for the
update of this manual. Sadly, I have found that most converted car owners
prefer to guard their knowledge and hope to keep it secret and thus have a
longer run on the free energy before the mighty hand of bureaucracy places a
ban on such work. So be it, we are all different and they are entitled to
their view. I do sometimes wonder why I am giving thousands of hours and
thousands of dollars of my personal time and money to such people. Anyway, on
with the list of long term modifications:
*
The engine runs cooler. As such, a winter oil and antifreeze seems to
be the logical fix.
*
The top-end runs hot and dry. The normal petrol motor utilises the
incoming petrol/air charge to perform considerable cooling of the intake
valve and seat. Similarly a leaded petrol engine uses the lead or its
equivalent as a lubricant for the intake valve guide, valve and seat. With
modern unleaded or gas motors this problem is taken care of with harder
valves and seats and a different type of valve guide. If you are using an
older type of motor, it may be beneficial for the long term life of the motor
to use one of the many types of upper lubrication kits that are readily
available from various auto accessory outlets.
*
Instruments and sensors burn out. I do not know of a fix for this, as
it is very difficult to shield
a
breeding cell. Remember that as a result of reaching Orgone saturation in the
water, the
excess
Orgone is converted to electricity. These potential's can be quite high under
favourable
conditions
and will happily destroy electrical equipment. One possible fix is to place
Zenner
diodes
or similar voltage sensitive " trip " circuits across voltage
sensitive components to by- pass all voltages greater than 15 Volts. It may
work, I have not tried it as yet.
*
The cell interacts with the car occupants. Apart from making the cell
non-leaky, I cannot
think
of even a possible solution to this one.
*
The cell runs hot after hours of use, eg. a taxi. The cure is to
control the electrolysis current
to
the minimum possible without noticing a performance change. As the cell heats
up, you
have
a thermal runaway effect. So as the cell gets hotter, it flows more current,
that heats it up some more, that flows more current, etc. As previously
mentioned, a variable electrolysis control with an ampmeter would be ideal
There
is no reports to hand that I know of, that goes into the long term wear and
tear of the motor running on the cell. The highest km's that I personally
know of on a cell, is less then 10,000 km's and as such is still far too
early for any form of appraisal.
Chapter 11
WHEN THINGS GO
WRONG
Do not over analyse or
overexperiment.
This will destroy the
experiment and it's creative Orgonomic force.
Dr.
Wilhelm Reich
Well,
my dear reader, you are reading this section for any of a number of reasons,
some are:
A.
You always read a book or notes from cover to cover before you start a
construction project. Great, good idea, read on.
B.
You are an armchair scientist and you are reading this information to see how
it fits in with your own pet opinions on the subject. Good luck and I hope,
if you find something to contribute, you will do so freely and in brotherly
love.
C.
You are reading this chapter because you have made a cell by other methods
and are looking for a quick fix. I would strongly recommend that you read and
absorb all the previous chapters, as you may have a borderline cell and it
may be better to construct a new cell.
D.
You are here because you have followed exactly,
all my suggestions, and you car will not run on the cell.
In
the above, I am only interested in reader D.
Approach to the problem
All
problems, irrespective of complexity, can be solved in a methodical, rational
fashion. If it looks insurmountable, break it down into convenient smaller
sections that you can cope with. Have this smaller section cover one topic
only. Make sure that you have a working knowledge of the topic. Take your
time , and have somebody else to talk with regarding your chosen solution and
approach.
It
is important that you change one variable at a time only!
If you change variables in a haphazard method or without recording you
observations, at the end of the day, you will be worse of than when you started.
I would suggest that you break up your problem into the following topics.
Fault finding topics
1.
The water.
1a.
Cell maintenance.
2.
The cell construction.
3.
The charging operation.
4.
Cell-to-car interface.
5.
Car modifications.
6.
Geographic location.
7.
The Y factor.
1. The water
The
single most common problem that you will encounter is the water. As Joe
remarked on many occasions, the " water goes bad ". Not a
scientific explanation, but well said. So, what are some of the problems with
the water?
A.
Is the water dead or polluted right from the start? If you collected,
transported and stored the water personally, you should know its history.
Re-read Chapter 8. If you still doubt your water, try the following. Orgone
accumulates in water, and as such, when you transfer the water out of the
cell, you take the charge with it. Therefore, if you, or an acquaintance has
a good, ie. stage 3 cell, the water can now be substituted into the suspect
cell. On now powering up the suspect cell, within 1 minute you cell should be
at stage 3. If the suspect cell does not come up to stage 3, the water is not
at fault! The above is by far the easiest way to test a suspect cell.
Unfortunately, you will need another cell or external help. That is why I
suggest that a group can keep a test cell at stage 3 indefinitely for the use
of the members. All it requires is that the " cell keeper " gives
the cell a daily 1 minute " feed ". You could even have an
automatic timer that applies 12 Volts to the cell for 1 minute every 24 hours
and just leave it alone in a suitable location. I have kept a test cell at
stage 3, on the above principles for over a year, and the idea works fine.
Note.
Do not leave the charged water outside its cell for longer than 1 hour as it
is not breeding.
I
have found that when I use water that I have stored for longer than about 6
months, on using it to fill new cells, I get a very light off-white residue
in the sump of the cell. All else works okay, ie., a normally breeding stage
3 cell. My 20 litre Pyrex flasks are stored in the garage and are exposed to
cars, noise, fluorescent lights, music, etc. I have now modified the flask
caps so that the water can breathe. Also the flasks have been made "
light tight ", with a jacket made of purple 100% wool felt. This may
help.
I
have found that the " old " juvenile water can be reactivated by
various forms of water modifiers. I use a special water vortex device and
have found that a cell that did not want to go stage 2 for over a week, went
stage 3 in 2 days! This is great news for people who have to travel
considerable distances to obtain their water. Of course, the bad news is you
need a " gismo " like I use, or you may want to try various
commercial structured waters to find one that works. I will again say, that
it is far easier to let Mother Nature do the work for you, rather than you
outlaying hundreds of dollars with no guarantees. I mentioned the above in
case you were already using a water " modifier " for health
reasons. If so, give it a try, you have nothing to lose.
B.
Has the pH of your water changed? Simply run your pH test on the cell water.
The reading should be the same. If not either the cylinders or the insulators
are breaking down and reacting with the water and electrolyte. Make sure that
you followed charging, insulator and cylinder material type recommendations
in previous Chapters.
C.
Is the water clear? As in B., the cylinders or insulators are breaking down.
Or the cell has gone into a base matter creation mode. As this topic is
highly controversial and not pertinent to this subject, your only option is
to completely dismantle, polish and clean the cell and/or replace the
insulators. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages as per Chapter
9.
D.
Is there any residue in the sump? As in B. and C. above.
E.
Are the stage 3 breeding indicators behaving the same? Read chapter 9 and
make sure that the behaviour of the bubbles and meniscus are the same,
especially the long term bubble retention. Again, if all else fails try the
voltage check.
F.
Have you changed locations and the cell is now sitting in a low density
Orgone strip? Make sure that the cell is at stage 3. Read Chapter 9.
G.
Have you accidentally shorted out the cell or reversed polarity to it? See if
it goes back to stage 3 if you apply power to it for 1 minute. If not
dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water.
Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.
H.
Have you allowed the seed to die? Read Chapter 9. Go through stage 1, stage 2
and stage 3 processes. The cell may go to stage 2 or even stage 3 within 3
minutes.
I.
Has the cell fallen over at any stage? Try a 1 minute charge and see if the
cell goes to stage 3. If not, dismantle, polish and clean all components.
Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.
1a. Cell maintenance.
I
have found after a cell has been in operation for about 6 months, although
there is no external indications of malfunction, ie. the cell is happily breeding,
it is a good idea to do the equivalent of an oil change and grease. You may
find one or more of the following:
*
There is a light deposit on the cylinders particularly the outside of the 1
inch and 2 inch.
*
The cylinders may have sagged from the vibration, ie. they are not flat on
the top horizontal alignment..
*
If rubber insulators are used, you will find that they may have developed a
set or a conductive path.
*
Some of the insulators, particularly the inner top ones, may have a light
white or grey deposit on them.
*
There may be a slight suspension or colloid towards the bottom of the cell.
*
There may be slight indications of a brown sediment on top of the water.
*
The cell metal parts may have become magnetised.
*
The lower insulators for the bolt may have shrunk and could be weeping.
*
The electrical connections to the cell may be loose or corroded.
*
The compression fitting for the aluminium pipe may be loose.
*
The short piece of rubber or neoprene hose to the blanking plug may have
aged.
The
cures for the above are self explanatory. The only difficult one is if the
cell has become magnetised. You may be able to degauss the cell, or at worst,
you may have to have the offending cylinder replaced or heat treated. After
you demagnetise your cell, find a better location for it, or it will only
happen again!
I
do a regular 6 month service on my cells. The steps I perform are as follows:
I pour out the charged water into a 5 litre glass container and put it in a
cool dark area. Obviously the glass cylinder is clean and only used for your
Joe cell work! Remember you have approximately 1 hour to replace the charged
water back into a seeding and breeding cell. I next dismantle the cell and
clean all surfaces with mild acetic acid. I find that it is not necessary to
repolish the cylinders, but you may do so if it makes you feel better. I
rotate any rubber insulators 180 degrees so as to use a fresh surface with no
set. I lubricate my bolt and associated insulators with Vaseline and
reassemble the cell. By this time, the charged water has been sitting for
about half an hour in the glass cylinder and most of the sediment has settled
to the bottom of the temporary glass container. I now pour the charged water
back into the cell using a paper coffee filter to catch any sediment. I stop
pouring the charged water into the cell when the first drops of water with
the sediments starts to leave the glass container. This water I discard or
have analysed to amuse myself. I now top up the cell with fresh juvenile water
and connect the cell to the power supply. Within seconds you will see a fine
white cloud develop on top of the water. This is the residue of the acetic
acid that you used to clean the cell with. I remove this simply by wiping the
top of the water surface with a paper towel. Within 1 minute your cell will
be back at stage 3. That's it, you have just completed you 6 month service.
Note. I will repeat
again in case you have forgotten, that all water, containers, funnel, etc.
must have only juvenile water used in the cleaning or transferring of water
for the cell maintenance. It requires a very small quantity of tap water that
has been " enhanced " by good old mankind to kill the cell. Don't
blame me if you have to start at stage 1 again by being lazy.
2. The cell construction
Needless
to say, you should have followed the cell construction Chapters to the
letter. If you did not, you obviously know how to make a different type of
cell, and these notes will not be 100% relevant, or you have chosen to be
creative, frugal, haphazard, or slap happy at the wrong time. I repeat, you
are not making a toaster! You are trying to induce the life force to work for
you. You cannot capture the life force as in a cage. It will enter and exit
as it sees fit. It can penetrate all materials! So to contain it you must use
natures geometry and mathematics, some dimensions are not critical but other
dimensions have to be " spot-on ".
If
the cell was working at stage 3 and now will not work.
A1.
A common problem is that the cell cylinders have moved due to rough handling,
vibration, or the wrong diameter insulators. The fix is a dismantle and
re-alignment. Make sure that you hands are clean!
A2.
Another common problem is the covering of the cylinders and insulators with
various residues. This can be seen on the dismantled cell, as an easy
removable film on the cylinders and insulators. In this case treat as a dead
cell and dismantle, polish and clean all components after finding the cause of the problem. The usual causes are
wrong welding material or flux, wrong cylinder material type, wrong insulator
material type, or water problems as in section 1. above. Fill with fresh juvenile water and start at stage 1.
A3.
The cell material has been magnetised by locating the cell near starter
cables or other high current-carrying wiring eg. Hi-Fi wiring, fog lamp or
other types of ancillary lights' wiring, winch wiring, etc. In this case,
find the magnetised component or components with you test magnet and replace,
heat treat or de-magnetise the affected components. A hot under bonnet
location will cause similar problems. After fixing the cell, relocate the
cell or the offending items.
A4.
The insulators or the cylinders are eaten away to some degree. You will pick
this up in the discolouration of the water. If you followed my instructions,
this will not occur. The problem is incompatible steel or insulators with the
water electrolyte combination. In any case, treat the cell as dead, replace
faulty components, etc. as in A2
If
the cell never worked at stage 3.
B1.
The cylinder material type. As mentioned in Chapter 6, the material that you
use is critical in you early
learning stages. All 316L is not the
same! Re-read Chapter 6.
B2.
The cell cylinder dimension is wrong. Re-read Chapter 6 and 7. The cylinders
must be level at the critical chamber separation area which are formed by the
tops of the internal cylindrical tubes. Re-check that the cylinders are
level. You should see no light when measuring with a straight edge.
B3.
The cylinder finish. As the top and bottom cuts are finished in a lathe, they
should be absolutely smooth, ie. no file or cutting marks. Similarly, there
should not be any heat bands where the cylinders were cut. The surface of the
rest of the cylinder does not have to be mirror smooth, but make sure that
there are no longitudinal marks or scratches. If you followed Chapter 6, they
will be okay.
B4.
Make sure that the welding is done as per Chapter 6. Make sure that all
internal irregularities caused by the welding process are removed, without
causing excessive localised hot spots.
B5.
Make sure that all threaded couplings from the cell to the engine is metal to
metal joints and the threads are not covered in sealants or Teflon tape, etc.
B7.
Make sure that the cell is airtight. If you apply your power source for a
minute or two to the cell and block the outlet of the aluminium pipe with you finger only, you will feel
the release of pressure on removal of your finger. Do not do this near flames
and/or explosive gasses! This will also check that your cell is not open
circuit or shorted and that it is electrolysing.
B8.
In B7 above, the most common electrical problems are the push fit of the ½
inch bolt into the 1 inch tube, and the insulators between the 1 inch bolt
and the lower cell exit point.
3. The charging operation
The
failures can be sub divided into 3 sections:
A.
Failure to get to stage 1. If you cannot get
the water to electrolyse at all, you have not read Chapter 9. Even blind
Freddie and his dog can do this. Hang you head in shame and take up another
interest! Seriously, not many things can go wrong. If your power source is
putting out about 12 Volts and if you have added the electrolyte as
described, then you must have some bubble activity ( even tiny ones that look
like a white mist, ) in the water. If there are still no bubbles in the
water, connect a 12 Volt car globe of any wattage or type to the very ends of
the leads that you are connecting to the cell. The lamp will light if your
power source and your leads are okay. Now remove the lamp and put the
positive lead to the outside surface of the cell and the negative lead to the
½ inch bolt that connects to the 1 inch cylinder. If you still have no
bubbles, the ½ inch bolt connection to the 1 inch tube is faulty, but highly
unlikely. Re-check the insulators that insulate the 1/2 inch bolt from the
outer container. As there is now water in the cell you will not be able to do
your insulation test but you should still read more than 10 Ohms resistance from
the bolt to the case. Be careful of misleading readings if the cell is acting
as a battery, as you Ohm measurement will be useless.
B.
Failure to get to stage 2. By this I mean
that the cell has not seeded and remains at the electrolysis stage. This is a very common stumbling block!
As explained, if the cell will not seed, the indication is there is no change
in bubble size or surface tension. Boy, oh boy, I have been here many a time
myself and I suggest the following:
B1.
The first and most common is the covering of the cylinders with a coating of
various chemicals. In my early days, when I took the lazy way out and brazed
or silver soldered my casing joints, this compound ended up all over the rest
of the cell due to electrolysis. As the positive is the donor surface and in
our case the outer casing including welds, sealants, etc., this fact
aggravated the plating process.
B2.
Another failure and resulting contamination, was the use of the wrong type of
sealant on the central insulator for the sealing of the ½ inch bolt where it
passes out through the bottom of the cell.
B3.
Likewise, when I decided to press fit my outer cell components, I used an
automotive silicon gasket cement on the joints. This also ended up plating
the whole cell.
B4.
If the water smells unhealthy or there is scum floating around, the water has
gone bad. Replace with fresh juvenile water and go back to stage 1.
B5.
Check that your insulators have retained the original manufactured colours.
That is, if red rubber, make sure they are still red, if silicone tubing,
make sure it is still clear, etc. The insulators may be fine for stage 1
electrolysis, but may be very leaky to Orgone.
B6.
You working area or you may be detrimental to the seeding of the cell. See 6. and 7.
B7.
You are not covering the cell overnight and/or between experiments. As
previously explained, we want to keep a very mild air seal on the cell. This
is easily done by placing a lid on the test cell or by having a spare
aluminium plug in the end of the hose where it fits onto the engine blanking
plug fitting. Again, I must repeat, DO
NOT use worm drive clips on both ends of the rubber coupling sleeve.
The rubber sleeve must act as a one way exit valve for any pressure in the
cell. The internal cell pressure must remain very close to atmospheric during
operation.
B8.
You are just too impatient! It may take 4 weeks to seed the cell! Just
spend a few minute a day with it and go and do something else.
B9.
You have used the wrong materials. This has already been covered. Please read
2.
B10.
You have used the wrong water. Ditto. Please read 1.
B11.
You are using the wrong charging method. Ditto. Please read 3.
B12.
You are the wrong potential. See " Y factor " Sect. 7 and chapter 13.
Note. For all problems
in this section due to contamination of the cell by deposits, water or
materials, dismantle the cell, polish, clean and refill with juvenile water.
C.
Failure to get to stage 3. This is the
failure of the cell to breed. Again, to repeat, this is the failure of the
cell to keep increasing the initial seed density to a greater, but still
finite, Orgone energy limit. Indicators will be a lack of long term bubble
and surface tension retention and an obvious non-operation or marginal
operation. Usually you will get to stage 3 very soon, ie. within days of
stage 2. Another way of describing the failure of running at stage 3, is that
the cell is leaky to such an extent that the Orgone force cannot accumulate
sufficient density in its present location for your needs.
C1.
The most common fault of the cell's in not breeding, or insufficient
breeding, is caused by marginal water, construction dimensions and materials.
Please make sure that you have followed these notes to the letter. If you
have modified or substituted components, etc., you obviously know something
that I do not know and if your cell had worked, I would love to hear from
you, but as you are reading this and if your cell is not working, I suggest
you follow my instructions to the letter, or try somebody else's, " how to
build a Joe cell " manual.
C2.
You, or your working area, may be detrimental to the cell's operation. Read 6. and 7.
4. Cell to car interface.
If
you are looking for faults in this area, you know that you cell is at stage 3, but the engine refuses
to run from the cell.
A1. Outlet pipe from cell.
A
lot of different diameters and materials will work. I would suggest, like Joe
that you use 1 inch outer diameter, 1/8 " tube thickness aluminium pipe.
Due to electrolytic action, copper will either pollute the cell, or pollute
itself. The short piece of rubber or neoprene must not have any clips on the
end that attaches over the blind aluminium plug. The idea is to let any
pressure " burp " out, but not to let any air in. The fitting
should act as a one way valve to pressure from the cell caused by the
electrolytic action. The engine end of the aluminium pipe should have you
positive electrical connection secured to the pipe by means of the same short
piece of hose being slipped over it. This end should have a clip to squeeze
the hose and the electrical fitting to the pipe. What you are doing is
providing your positive connection at the very end of the outlet pipe. You
negative as previously described, will go to the cars body, ( we are
presuming a modern car that has a negative earth system ). The pipe fitting
to the top of the cell must be air tight without the use of sealants or
Teflon tape, etc. The compression or threaded fitting will do a good job of this.
Try to twist the aluminium pipe out of the compression fitting. If tight, you
will not be able to budge it. Your pipe should also have some form of
insulation around it to prevent contacts to the rest of the metallic parts of
the car. Ideally, the cell should be similarly protected. Remember, just one
short circuit and the cell is dead!
A2.
Electrical connections. The positive wire coming from
the end of the aluminium pipe should go via a 5 Amp fuse to your "
ignition on " wiring. By this, I mean that the cell should only have the
car power connected to it when the ignition is on. Some people prefer to run
this wire via an off/on switch that is located in the car. When you connect
your negative to the car, it is preferable to connect it directly to the block
if you earth straps from the motor or gearbox are suspect. Either way, with
the ignition on, you should measure 12 Volts positive on the cell body and 12
Volts negative on the central bolt fitting. If not, check you wiring, fuse,
any switches, etc. The most probable cause of no voltage is a blown fuse
because you have shorted the cell. Find you short, replace the fuse and make
sure that the cell goes to stage 3. If
not, pull the cell out, clean, polish, new water, etc. ie. start
again. The other most common problems are the use of sealants on the
compression fitting. This is easy to find and fix. If you have 12 Volts
across the cell, that does not mean necessarily that you have your 1 Amp
current flow. To check this, temporally disconnect the negative end of your
cell from the car body or motor and put you Amp meter in series with the
central bolt and the car connection. You should read your 1 Amp current flow.
If not you have some high resistance connections or wiring, or the cell is
faulty. As you are reading this because you know you cell is not faulty, the
problem is either you aluminium pipe connection or you wiring. Locate the
problem step by step, making sure that you do not short out or apply reverse
polarity to the cell. As mentioned in Chapter 10, the 1 Amp is a nominal figure. At 1 Amp the cell is
dissipating about 13 Watts and the cell may eventually heat up on an extended
journey and a hot day. Check Chapter 10
for recommendations.
A3.
Cell design. If you have made a cell with the
wrong taper to you cone, the Orgone will focus before it gets to the motor
and the cell will work brilliantly on the bench, but it will not run the car.
The only reason this has occurred is that you did not build a cell as
described in these notes. To quickly summarise cone angles, any apex cone
angle of less than 45 degrees is highly suspect.
A4.
Cell location. Check as previously explained, that
the cell is located in a favourable location in the car. Is it in a cool
place? Is it level? Is it located as far as possible from high current
wiring? Is it located in a low vibration area? Not like some rocket scientist
who strapped it to his engine!!! As Orgone has a vertical preference once it
leaves the cell, reduce horizontal and " down hill " pipe runs to a
minimum. A cell located in the boot, with a 4 meter run to the engine is not
a great idea. Again, a non-leaky cell can run 60 meters or more into a
horizontal tube, but why tempt fate? As far as the cell ( but not the
passenger ) is concerned, for you first cell's temporary location, the
passenger foot well, with a pipe through the bulk head and a short, ( less
than a meter ) pipe to the blind plug located at the rear of the engine ( non
V8 ) works well. Please note ! A cell in the passenger foot area will be illegalin some areas!,
so you are obviously using this car on private land until you have it legally
approved.
Note. At this point of
the trouble shooting list, you know
that you cell is at stage 3 and that it is connected correctly to the car. So
if things are still not working, leave this area alone! Do not undo what you
know is working, ie. don't dismantle your cell or associated connections to
the car, they are okay! Leave them alone and look for problems in the only
remaining areas you have not covered, ie. Section 5, 6, and 7. Unless you keep a systematic approach to the
installation and troubleshooting procedures, you will never get the cell to
run the car.
5. Car modifications.
For
a start, I will again state the obvious, some cars will be easier to modify
than others, or more importantly, not all persons will be able to modify all
cars! So unless you are masochistic and want to make your friend's life a
misery, choose an easy car! This,
of course, may not be old faithful that is sitting in your garage. You should
also have followed Chapter 10. before
you read this.
You
are reading this because you KNOW
that your cell is still breeding, ie. running at stage 3, your car
connections are okay and you electrical connections are okay. You have
started your car on petrol and after it has warmed up, you either have turned
off the electrical fuel pump, or you have turned off the fuel to, or from,
the mechanical pump. Now as the fuel is used up in the fuel bowl, or bowls,
the engine falters and stops, ( at this stage, I am not talking about fuel
injected motors ). That is how I would expect you to test the change over
phase. You are really pushing your luck, if you walk up to a stone cold car,
remove the fuel to the engine and start cranking! I hope you have plenty of fully
charged batteries!
The car will either run, run erratically or not at all.
A1.
Car shows no sign of running from the cell. By this I
mean that as soon as the motor runs out of fuel, the car stops. A lot of
people get here, but blame the wrong components. As stated above, you are
here because you know all sections up to here are working okay. This only
leaves this Section 6 and 7. So
let's presume that the car is at fault as that is the present topic. I can tell
you for a fact, that a 1971 V8 Rover will start first shot and run like a
dream. On the other hand, a 1100cc Mini Minor will not even think of staring
first time. Why? There are a lot of pet theories floating around, but as
these are my notes I will give you my theory based, on logic.
Note. The following is a theory and
eventually may be proven wrong. but the way I see it is that the water and
the cylinder bores in the motor act as a single layer Orgone accumulator, ie.
an organic material ( water ) surrounding a non-organic cylinder ( the bore
). As such, an engine with a bore that is fully surrounded with water will be
far superior than an engine that uses siamesed bores or casting methods,
without the benefit of the totally water-surrounding cylinder. Now as most
aluminium blocks have metal sleeve cylinders pressed into the aluminium block
for bores, this feature allows for a full water circulation and completes our
single layer Orgone accumulator. It also makes it less leaky and more
conducive to conversion to a Joe cell system. Remember, Orgone loves water.
This is also ( in my opinion ), the reason why a person that chooses an air
cooled motor will have more problems than one that uses a water cooled motor.
The
above gives me a reason why some motors start first shot and others may take
weeks to kick in. Two other effects hinder or help the above. The first is,
that Orgone seems to " like " to travel in aluminium or it finds
aluminium more difficult to penetrate, so it would have a tendency, on leaving
our aluminium pipe to either prefer the aluminium block, or once it was
inside the block, it may have a greater difficulty in " leaking "
out. I would be the first to admit that I do not understand this effect, but
it is definitely there. As more information comes to hand, I will update
these notes. The second is the easier conversion of V8 motors. As our
blanking entry plug is located in the vee formed by the two banks of 4
cylinders, the Orgone distribution from the cell is ideal, ie. it is a
central entry, nearly equidistant and close to all cylinders. Another
important feature is that the entry point it is on the cold side of the
motor, ie. the exhaust system is on the " other side " of the
cylinders. This also give a cross-flow motor an advantage.
So
what is to be made from the above? I would suggest, like Joe, to start on an
easy conversion until you build up your own confidence and hence the " Y
factor ". Either go and see a converted car so you can believe, or
convert an old Rover or Leyland V8 as a group effort. I cannot see why the
different clubs and interest groups cannot pool together and purchase an old
wreck.
If
you insist in converting your cast iron, or air cooled whatever, be prepared
to wait for the molecular changes that seems to occur to cast iron, siamesed
bore and manifold type motors. As Joe stated, this may take 3 or 4 weeks. I
have personally installed cells that are stage 3 and left them " running
" on the car. The car was driven normally on petrol or gas, until the
idle or engine operation noticeably changed. This was the indicator that the
" molecular " changes have occurred and the car was ready. What you
also may want to try is to replace the normal radiator water with SPECIAL, charged stage 3 water
( see Chapter 9 regarding the
special stage 3 water ). This should speed up the acclimatisation process. As
most modern motors run some form of inhibitors and anti freeze additives in
the water, you will have to consider the consequences of playing around with
this mixture. The down side of dumping the additives may be increased
corrosion on alloy components, ie. head, manifold, water pump, etc. Due to
the tendency of the motor to run much cooler on the Joe cell, I would
recommend that you leave the Glycol in the water. Obviously, you throw all
new car warranties out the window the moment that you add the Joe cell and
its related conversions to you car.
A2.
Fuel injection cars. The simplest way to treat
these cars is to perform a full conversion to gas. In this way you have a
duel fuel system, ie. Joe cell or gas. Plus you pick up the advantages of a
longer life span for your engine as per Chapter 10.
Section
summary. So really, all that I can suggest in
this section, is that if the car will not start at ALL and all other sections have been covered, you should
give the conversion a maximum of 4 weeks for the cell to take over. If the
cell does not kick in that period, the chances are indeed slim that it will
ever work. You have only a few chances left. A few people have surfaced in
Australia that can tune your car and cell by the application of correctly
located specifically made crystal packs. This has emerged as a new and not
well understood science, but it just about guarantees that the cell will run
in some form or other on the car.
A
recent discovery by an avid alternative energy experimenter from Adelaide, (
Aust. ) was that the car only ran on his cell after the car was up to a road
speed of 80 kph. Obviously if he only tried to run the car on the cell in a
start-up, stationary situation, he would not have discovered that the cell
was partially working. So, as he is a great lateral thinker, he took the car
for a drive on petrol and then turned off the electrical fuel pump when the
car was up to speed. As the car would not idle on the cell, he simply turned
on the fuel pump before the engine returned to idle speed. I would guess and
say that his cell was very leaky or the Orgone transfer to the engine was
poor and thus marginal for engine requirements, and that the forward motion
of the car caused a charging effect from the Orgone that the car was
travelling through.
With
the above example, I am saying that you should not give up too easily and
that with a bit of experimentation and patience, your car will also run on
Orgone.
All
cars, including fork lifts, dragsters and diesel motors that Joe converted
eventually ran! If your car will not run, consult your favourite "
expert ", or drop me or the publisher a line, only as a last resort when you have exhausted all other
avenues. Please be reasonable, realise that I am only one person, I have a
life and family, I do not get paid for my time by you or the hundreds of
others requiring help. Irrespective, I will do my best to help.
A3.
Car runs erratically, or does not reach maximum power, or starts and then
stops.
This
could be caused by many things and you will have to logically fault trace, by
elimination of one suspect cause at a time. Some causes ( not in any specific
order );
*
The cell is marginal. Check that it is still at stage 3.
*
The cell contains too much water. Rectify.
*
The air flow into the motor is " wrong " at that particular engine
operating range. We are working on this problem, but as a temporary cure,
some cell operators have modified the fuel system to supply a slight petrol
flow into the engine at the troublesome operating range.
*
The cell is marginal due to bad design. Read Chapter 6.
*
The cell is too small. Read Chapter 6.
*
The cell to motor tube is the wrong shape, material, or diameter. Read
Chapter 10.
*
The blind plug is location is not optimised on the motor. Read Chapter 10.
*
The cell has become magnetised. See previous section.
*
The day is hot, or the cell is too hot. Feel the cell!
*
The cell is too hot from excessive electrolysis current. Wait for the cell to
cool down and
then
readjust current.
*
The cell is mounted in a bad location in the car. Read Chapter 10.
*
The day is wet or humid. See section
6.
*
You, your passengers, or animals, or location, are interacting with a
marginal cell. See section
7.
*
Your ignition timing is not optimised. Adjust!
*
Your water has gone " off ", or you water level has gone down.
Rectify!
*
Your cell cylinders are polluted. Dismantle and clean.
*
You are in a high DOR area with a marginal cell. Hopefully you can drive out
of to before the cell dies.
*
You are in a strip of low or reversed Orgone. As above.
*
Sun or planetary activity is detrimental to cell output. Change over to
" normal " fuel and wait for more favourable times.
*
Your electrolysis rate is down or not sufficient to run the motor.
*
Your wiring or the cell have gone high resistance. Check with an Amp meter to
make sure that you chosen " running current " is still okay.
*
The air flow into the motor is wrong at that particular engine operating range.
We are working on this problem, but as a temporary cure, some cell operators
have modified the fuel system to supply a slight petrol flow into the engine
at the troublesome operating range.
A4.
The car runs. Great! Good for you, but please
remember that it will not run all the time and will stop unexpectantly and
with no warning signs, so always have a duel fuel system set up and ready to
" kick in ". It would be highly embarrassing to be thousands of
kilometres from home and having to ask the local mechanic to fix your Joe
cell conversion! You should see an interesting look on his face.
The
performance of your car will be determined by the reserve of Orgone density
you have on demand. A leaky or under-capacity cell will not give you maximum
power. A good cell will give you at least the same and usually a greater
power range with a sweeter running and more tractable motor.
A5.
To return the car back to normal fuel.
If
for some reason you have now decided that you want to convert the car back to
normal for reasons best known to yourself, you should perform the following
steps:
*
Remove the cell, wiring, brackets, etc.
*
Seal, in a professional manner ALL
holes that you have made in the floor or bulkhead. If the holes are left,
moisture may enter the vehicle and thus cause rust. More importantly, some holes may allow the entry of gasses that
may kill you or some other occupier!!!
*
Return ignition timing to normal manufacturers recommendation.
*
Replace all special oil and water that was used to run the car on the cell.
*
Remove any vortex air cleaners or mufflers unless you still want these for
fuel saving reasons.
Now
the fun will start. As there may be a residual of Orgone charge in the
motor/car bodywork, the motor may refuse to run at the normal ignition
timing. It may return to normal running after weeks, but during the
intervening time the engine will run rough, refuse to idle at the normal idle
speed and be a real pain to drive. A suggested solution is to use a thick
lead, ( a jump-start lead is perfect ) and connect one end to the positive
end of the battery and flash the other end very briefly against the engine at
or near where you placed the blanking plug for the transfer tube from the
cell. This will cause a momentary massive current to flow through the motor
and back to earth ( metal parts of car ) and finally back to the negative end
of the battery and thus reverse ( hopefully ) the charge from the Orgone and
thus clear the motor. Make sure
that you first disconnect any cables that are on the positive terminal of the
battery before attempting the above!
NOTE! The above
operation is a last ditch effort by competent
mechanics. This is due to the very expensive and lethal damage that can occur
to you and the car ie:
*
You may destroy your car computer/s, alternator, regulator and/or diodes, car
radio, gauge's, and any other electronic device on the car.
*
As you are creating massive currents, you have a fair chance of melting any
thin cables connected between the motor and earth.
*
Also as you are creating sparks near the car battery, ( if it is located
under the bonnet ) you have a fair chance of igniting the hydrogen gas in the
battery thus causing a large explosion with a liberal spray of sulphuric
acid. This may MAIM OR EVEN KILL YOU
or the onlookers and of course destroy the front end of the car.
Again, I do not recommend the above unless you know
exactly what you are doing. I merely mention
this method for completeness as it is employed by some individuals.
6. Geographic location.
As
mentioned, Orgone is not a constant, or even density cover on this planet.
Some of the resulting problems are:
*
The density varies seasonally.
*
The density varies with the time of day.
*
The density varies with planetary motions.
*
The density varies with the Sun's cycle.
*
The density varies with altitude.
*
The density varies with geographic location.
*
The density varies with the " users " of the Orgone energy eg. a
nearby car.
*
The density varies with the weather.
*
The density varies with the introduction of pollutants.
*
the density varies with the Earths and cosmic magnetism.
As
you can see from the above, it is a wonder that we can use it at all, with
our crude knowledge and even cruder cell. The main solution is to have a cell
that is not too leaky. This means that the cell is always over-producing thus
giving you some valuable time to drive out of the unfavourable locality. This
is why I have suggested that you should have a duel fuel system and at no
stage rely on the cell alone. It is one thing to have it fail on your garage
bench, and a completely different thing to have it fail in the outback.
Orgone has a very big disliking for any form of man-made electromagnetic
radiation. So any large high voltage power line, transmitters, airport radar,
military installations or radioactive sources will set up a reaction with the
Orgone to create DOR. This may be so severe, that as Joe says, " the
water has gone bad ". Unfortunately, as you are probably already
anticipating what I am going to write, this requires a clean of the cylinders
and insulators , fresh water, etc. That's right, back to stage 1.
7. The Y factor.
For
the rational, proof only, and died-in-the-wool scientific types, you are
going to hate this one! Normally anything that cannot be explained in the
framework of existing theories that are known as " facts ", are
place under the category of, " experimentally observed phenomena ".
The following fits that category. Basically, as Reich discovered, the Y
factor simply stands for you.
Yes, unfortunately when you get to the grey areas where known science merges
into the unknown, you enter areas that will stretch your belief system if you
so allow it. I could have very easily left the so-called non-scientific mumbo
jumbo out of this book and so given myself at least a little "
scientific credibility ", whatever that means. Luckily, as I am
self-funded and do not live on grants by writing " selected "
papers, no multi national can conveniently shut me up or rephrase the above
to suit their needs. In actuality, it is immaterial if you believe or do not
believe in the Y factor, either way it exists and you really should consider
the concept of all creation being intimately linked permanently and
instantly.
The
Y factor will make your Joe cell either not seed at all, or not breed, or
breed poorly, or behave in an intermittent fashion, depending on the living
energies around it at any one time. This is not a fable coming out of my
demented brain, but an observed fact, recorded from all over the world for
countless centuries.
I,
with many others have had individuals walk up to our cells and watch our cell
suddenly breed, ( Stage 3 ) or worst, watch with dismay as our cell drops
back to Stage 1 ( die ). My favourite test cell was a Stage 3 cell for over 10
months and I was stupid enough to let it be observed by all and sundry. One
day it was observed by an individual who by his own admission was out of
energy and run down . Within seconds of this guy looking at my cell, it
dropped out of Stage 3 to a weak Stage 2. Next morning it was absolutely
dead. I pulled it apart and cleaned all metal parts hoping that this would
fix it as the charge is in the water. No Joy! I then completely rebuilt the
cell, added fresh water and I am still waiting for it to go to Stage 2! As in
Chapter 8, you have been warned, keep your living cell to yourself. A friend
reported to me a similar experience, namely that a cell that would not go to
Stage 2 sprang to life ( Stage 3 ) when a friend of his was 20 meters away
from the cell, and then the cell went into a frenzy as he approached it. When
his friend left, the cell died again! True stories.
The
best procedure with the cell, or for that matter any endeavour is to treat it
with an open mind. You do not have to believe that it will work, but
similarly, you should not doubt that it can work. Do not analyse too much or
apply blinkers to your thinking process by presuming that you have learned
all that there is to know and with your " vast knowledge " can
categorically say that, this Joe cell concept could never work. Unless you
are the Almighty himself, you will learn new things every day for the rest of
your life. I have talked to many, many intelligent individuals that simply
refuse to believe that a car can run on what they see as nothing, nor how
this nothing can get into a " solid metal " engine through no
openings operate the motor and produce no measurable pollution. Yet, these
same individuals who consider themselves sane ( with reservations for my
sanity ), are quite happy to spend large sums of money or follow some
outlandish new age fad in medicines or self-healing techniques with even less
proof or science!
CLOSING COMMENT.
" They call me deranged.
The hope is that they are right.
It is of no greater or lesser
import for another fool
to wander the earth, But if I
am right and science is
wrong - then may the Lord God
have mercy on mankind.
Victor
Schuaberger
My
dear patient reader. At no stage have I said that the Joe cell is similar to
making a bread toaster. As you are dealing with a little known, mass-less
life force, you are behind the 8 ball right from the start, your battle is
uphill and lonely, with jeering and laughing " experts " on both
sides waiting for you to fall. Similarly, at no stage have I said that all
people can convert all cars. Likewise, once you have converted your chosen
car, there is no guarantee as to how long it will run before the breeding
stops and/or the seed dies.
With
the right mindset, all the above are minor problems and enjoyable challenges,
but if you approach this conversion in a rush, not really believing in your
heart that it can work, or with the intention of making lots of quick money,
the Y factor is going to bite you! Don't even start, you are wasting your
time and money. Think about it! If it was so easy and if all and sundry could
exploit the life force, why is it not in mass production out in the real
world? The answer is simple. It is exactly the mind set of these type of individuals
that prevents them from utilising Mother Nature's secrets.
May
aim has been to show you a method of cell construction that works for me.
Obviously, there are many different ways to encourage the life force to enter
an accumulator, storing it, increasing the stored density and finally
utilising the force as you make it work on its release, similar to a dam wall
and a water turbine. I have read all materials available to me relating to
the life force and its utilisation. Over 6 years, I have compiled, analysed
and experimented with the combinations that showed the greatest potential. I
am not infallible, nor do I claim I make the best cells. I only claim that I
make cells that work! You are reading some of this work. As I give you this
information freely, I hope that you will also distribute it freely. What you
do with this knowledge is your decision. Hopefully, as a result of your
efforts you will share any new knowledge or short cuts with the rest of us,
so we can all grow together as a brotherhood.
Chapter 12
MISCELLANEOUS
THOUGHTS
" Begin by forgetting what
you have learned."
Armand Barbault
This
section is optional reading. It is here for the reader who wants a better
overview of Orgone, accumulator theory and miscellaneous supporting works
including more of my rambling's.
Emerald Tablet.
This
is Hermes work relating to the Cosmic force, that he calls Sol, as translated
by R. Steele and Mrs. D. W. Singer.
" Emerald Tablet "
"
True it is , without falsehood, certain and most true.
That
which is above is like to that which is below, and
that
which is below is like to that which is above, to
accomplish
the miracles of one thing.
And
as all things were by the contemplation of one, so
all
things arose from this one thing by a single act of adaption.
The
father thereof is the Sun the mother the Moon.
The
Wind carried it in its womb, the Earth is the nurse thereof.
It
is the father of all works of wonder throughout the whole world.
The
power thereof is perfect.
It
is to be cast on the Earth, it will separate the element
of
Earth from that of Fire, the Subtle from the gross.
With
great sagacity it does ascend gently from Earth To Heaven.
Again
it does descend to Earth and untieth in itself
the
force from things superior and things inferior.
Thus
thou wilt possess the glory of the brightness of the
whole
world, and all obscurity will fly far from thee.
This
thing is the strong fortitude of all strength, for it
overcometh
every subtle thing and doth penetrate every solid substance.
Thus
was this world created.
Hence
will there be marvellous adaptions achieved,
of
which manner is this.
For
this reason, I am called Hermes Trismegistus,
because
I hold three parts of the wisdom of the whole world.
That
which I had to say about the operation of Sol is completed."
************************************************************
Cone angle calculations.
I
must warn the reader that this section is, like Chapter 7, a creation of my
brain , mind, or imagination. As such, treat it with caution, Prove all things; hold fast to the
truth!
The
cone has to perform a very difficult task. As Orgone cannot be held captive
against its will, somehow we have to execute an impedance transformation from
the containing cylinder assembly, to the restriction of the outlet fitting
and then to the Aluminium cell-to-car tube. The scientific problems are
challenging; firstly, because conventional science, in general, denies the
existence of Orgone. Secondly, this mass-less, hard to measure and invisible
force does not lend itself to easy analysis.
So
some " loony " must be prepared to at least make an effort to
explain the unexplainable, and stick his reputation on the line, with at
least some form of a theory that may be eventually corrected and built upon,
and thus finally producing concrete facts. So here goes:
As
we are ultimately dealing with frequencies and the resultant harmonics, all
atoms and molecules must have an individual signature. Thus the cone material
harmonics can play a large part in containing and guiding the dual pulsating
Organic vortex field.
This
calculation of complex harmonics of frequencies is very difficult. So I have
chosen to take the easier path of working from a know parameter and thus
obtaining the unknown details. As there is a relationship between the
frequencies and the atomic weights, and as we have a fair tabulation of
these, I will base my cone angle calculation on the atomic weights of the
elements concerned. At all stages I am referring to the angle formed
inside the apex of the cone.
*
You may readily look up for yourself the related atomic weights, but to save
you some work, I will list some of the ones that are related to my
explanation.
Element Atomic weight Element Atomic weight
Hydrogen
1.00794 Carbon 12.011
Magnesium
24.305 Aluminium 26.98154
Silicon
28.0855 Phosphorous 30.97376
Sulphur
32.06 Titanium 47.88
Vanadium
50.9415 Chromium 51.996
Manganese
54.9380 Iron 55.847
Cobalt
58.9332 Nickel 58.69
Copper
63.546 Zinc 65.38
Molybdenum
95.94 Silver 107.8682
Tin
118.69 Gold 196.9665
*
Now let us analyse the chief constituents of 316L stainless steel.
Element weight %
Iron
72%
Chromium
16%
Nickel
10%
Molybdenum
2%
As
the rest of the elements are 1% or less, I will them out of our calculations.
Similarly the above percentages are variable and I am using the minimum
values that can carry the 316L name. If you want a more precise cone angle
calculation, use my methodology and tighten up your own figures. You will
find that the final manufacturing tolerance will absorb you numerical perfection.
The
next step is to add up the related element based on the percentage existing
in the final product, thus;
Element % in 316L Atomic weight Total % in 316L
Iron
72 55.84 40.21
Chromium
14 52 7.28
Nickel
10 58.7 5.87
Molybdenum
3 95.94 2.88
Manganese
1 54.94 0.55
Total 56.79
So
let us round of to 57 and now call this our cones internal apex angle in
degrees.
Okay,
you say, a great play with numbers where, at one moment we are dealing with
apples, and the next moment you are calling them oranges! Yes, I agree, but
let us see if empirical data gives the same result.
*
Remember from Chapter 7, as to how we derived the outer casing height from
two methods. One was my theory and the other one was the dimensions of
working cells, both Joe's and my own. We will do the same here. Now, I
suggested that for a 5 cylinder cell, an inner length of 8 inches and an
outer length of 10 inches worked very well.
I
have also previously explained, that the seed centre is in the center of the
vertical height of the cylinder assembly, as dictated by the magnetic and
electric forces. As the height is 10 inches for the outer cylinder casing,
half this height is obviously 5 inches. So the nodal points would be at 5
inch intervals. Therefore, the perfect cone would have a vertical ( not
diagonal ) height of 5 inches. If we do some basic geometry, you will find
that this works out at about 54 degrees. and a cone height of 4.5 inches
would give us 58 degrees. In passing, a perfect ( isosceles ) triangle has 60
degrees internal angles.
Remembering
that we are trying to capture the vortex at the nodal point, thus the 4.5
inches would bring the apex of the vortexial crossover nicely into the outlet
fitting. Bear in mind that the actual apex of the cone is missing and that
instead we have a 1 inch hole . This 1 inch hole is at the 4 inch vertical
height of the cone, so you want a 5 inch to 1 inch 316L reducer with a 4 inch
base-to-hole vertical height. The 57 degrees falls very close to the 4.5 inch
vertical height, which is midway inside the compression outlet fitting.
Exactly where you want it.
Okay,
what about the 4 cylinder cell, how does this fit in with the theory? Lets
have a look at it. As an average inner cylinder length is 7 inches, the outer
casing cylinder would be 9 inches. As before, the nodal points are half of
this, thus a vertical height of 4.5 inches. At a vertical height of 4.5
inches, the cone angle would be 48 degrees, 9 degrees short of what we want
for 316L stainless steel.
So
unless we used a 7 inch outer casing and recalculated the seed diameter and
the inner cylinder lengths, the 316L cone would not be optimum.
But
what is to stop us using a cone made from a different material? For example a
Titanium cone at an atomic weight of 47.88 or 48 would be perfect, and
perfectly expensive. So forget that one. A lot of experimenters world wide
have had good results with Aluminium cones. From the above table, the atomic
weight for Aluminium is 26.98154, or for my calculation, an angle of about
27. degrees. As we are dealing with harmonics, the next upper harmonic is 54
degrees ( close to 57 degrees as in the 5 cylinder cell ) and thus only a
fraction higher than the 4 inches vertical cone height. The end result is
that an Aluminium cone would work better than the same cone in stainless
steel of the same aspect ratio. The 1 inch outlet hole is on the 3 inch
vertical height of the cone, so you want a 4 inch to 1 inch Aluminium reducer
that has a base-to-hole vertical height of 3 inches. The 54 degree falls on
about the 4 inch vertical cone height, which will be fair way inside your
compression fitting. As this cone cannot be welded to the stainless steel
casing by many welders, a press fit is required. Also, remember that we want
a seamless interior transition and finish. It has been done and it works very
well, but for the general experimenter, it is far easier to use a stainless
steel cone and suffer the extra leakage.
The
above two examples may help you with your experiments on cone angles. There
are many number games that you may play with Nature's mathematics and the
above is only one. For example, you could use the Fibonacci series, ie. 1, 2,
3, 5, 8, 13, etc. and use it for your cell design, thus inner cylinders
diameters are, 1 inch, 2 inch and 3 inch, an outer diameter of 5 inches, an
inner length of 8 inches and a outer casing length of 13 inches, with a cone
vertical height of 6.5 inches, or half again, ie. 3.25 inches. I have not
tried this as yet, but I am very tempted to do so when time permits.
Note. Most cones work to
some degree or other, what I am trying to do is to optimise the ideal shape
and its related dimensions. From a person who could actually " see
" the Orgone flame, ( Verne Cameron ) the following broad guidelines are
worth their value in gold:
*
" If the cone is less than 90
degrees, the beam is shortened and brought to a focus."
You
may use these angles at you discretion, taking overall tube length into
consideration.
*
" If the cone angle is 90 degrees,
you will have a concentrated 1 inch beam, which will travel great distances."
A
90 degree cone for the 5 inch cell is 2.5 inches high to the apex and 2
inches high to the 1 inch outlet. A 90 degree cone for the 4 inch cell is 2
inches high to the apex and 1.5 inches high to the inch outlet. I find these
angles too " flat " for cones and prefer a focussed beam cone
construction. Of course, a dome in some geometric shape would favour this
flat layout but, with the added complication of tuning the dome shape, ie,
elliptical, parabola, circular, etc.
*
" If the cone angle is more than
90 degrees, the beam will tend to disperse."
Do
not use these angles. They will tend to reflect the Orgone energy back into
the cell and thus make the cell a great table-top model, but they will not
run a car.
From
the above, it can be seen, as to why some experimental cell perform
brilliantly on the bench, but will not run a car; namely the cone angle is
too small and the Orgone beam reaches a focus point before reaching the water
jacket of the motor. Again, you have been warned! If the cell is a stage 3
cell, and the motor will not run, the cone angle is one of the primary
suspects.
******************************************************
How does it work ?
The
inspiration, for this section belongs to Walter Russell a truly amazing
being. I have used his great brain to allow me to explain to you how I think
the Joe cell functions.
From
Beyond the Atom .
There is a neutral ether consisting of countless myriads
of inconceivably small particles per cubic centimeter having no electric
charge and no mass. Universal mind places electrostatic charges on these
particles when there is a suitable magnetic field so that the become charged
particles. The complexity of the charge determines the type of charged
particle and its behaviour.
The
above nicely explains several points to the average reader;
*
As ether, ( Orgone ) has no mass or electric charge it makes it very
difficult to measure. If you read about the efforts that science has gone to,
to measure gravity waves and neutrinos, you will more fully comprehend the
problems of measuring these forces . Suffice to say that just because
scientists cannot measure Orgone energies does not mean that Orgone does not
exist.
*
As our Joe cell geometry, chemistry, electrolysis, location, materials and
experimenters vary from cell to cell, the Joe cell will thus produces a whole
series of different effects for different experimenters. The cell can lose
weight, cause rain, heal people, make people sick, create various elements and
even do what you want it to do ie. power an internal combustion motor.
So,
how does a Joe cell run a car? Again I will stick my neck out and suggest an
answer that makes sense to me. Obviously it is a theory and is only in place
until a reader suggests a better theory, in which case I will remove mine and
insert his with full credits.
Have
you ever considered exactly what occurs when you use a battery for your
radio, torch, etc. I mean what is in the battery that makes your device work
and why does it go flat?
There
is many chemical and electrical ways of explaining the process, but I would
like to explain it to you from a slightly different perspective. Lets set the
stage:
1.
Every unbalanced action must eventually be balanced no matter how long it
takes. Remember that I have mentioned in another section of this book the
great clue, Rhythmic balanced
interchange. All things in creation including our battery and the Joe
cell obey this fundamental rule.
2.
Electricity is dividing a pressureless condition into two opposite pressures
which desire release and thus a return to a state of balance. So our 1.5 Volt
battery for example, does not want to have a positive and negative pole and
is trying to return to a state of balance ie. eventually the battery will go
flat the duration depending on how much work we ask it to do.
3.
Work is the result of unbalanced matter seeking a rest in balance. Notice how
we make our battery work for us by letting it return to a state of
balance.
JUST AS IN THE JOE CELL
4.
So the charge of the battery, ( or the Joe cell ) is a pressureless condition
separated into two opposite pressures.
5.
A charged battery is dually unbalanced by the opposite pressures which desire
release, exactly as in the Joe cell. Opposites oppose, they never perform any
other function than to oppose. Opposites are not things; they are conditions.
Okay,
if we look at the above clues and using the car battery as an example, we can
readily see that the electrolysis that occurred in the battery when we
charged it via the car alternator has created an unbalance that is
frantically trying to return to a state of balance. If you do not believe me
and if you are foolish enough, just put a spanner across the terminals of a
charged battery and watch it melt and disappear. Please don't do it, take it
as fact. In like manner, when we charged the Joe cell, ( which is also acting
as an accumulator ) we have created an unbalanced condition that is also
frantically trying to return to a state of balance.
A
car battery reaches a state of balance by finding an electrical path either
in the battery ( self discharge ) or outside the battery in a resistive load
ie. turning your lights on. The Joe cell reaches a state of balance if you
accidentally short the cell when it is charged, or in the combustion chamber
of the car by using the timed spark plug spark or a similar electronic
trigger to allow it to drop to a lower or balanced density ( the state it was
in before you forced it to do work ).
The
result of the Joe cell working is translated into an expansion of the intake
air charge and thus the forcing of the piston down the bore to turn the
crankshaft etc.
Now
a few words of mine should fall into place for you. A stage 3 cell is charged
ie has sufficient unbalance to do work. A leaky cell is a self discharging
cell. A balanced or stage 1 cell cannot perform work. To make the cell work,
we must have an efficient transfer to the point where the work is required,
ie. we must contain the unbalanced condition until it is in combustion chambers
by using the right type of cone, tube, blind plug, motor and electrical
connection.
The
Joe cell accumulator is constantly trying to return to a state of balance and
given the slightest excuse will return to balance and thus be useless to you.
As you build up you familiarity with your cell, you will find that the cell
is constantly giving you small clues as to what it is doing. As such working
with the Joe cell is an interactive exercise and developing the skills of a
good observer will be highly beneficial.
***************************************************************
Electrolysis process.
A
lot of experimenters have tried in different ways to electrolyse water, and
thus as a result of electrolysis, utilise the liberated hydrogen and oxygen
as a fuel to run a car. This was the original intention of Joe when he
planned to run his car on " steam ". This was, and is, also the
intentions of individuals right up to the present time. They have all
forgotten, or never knew, the fundamental principles of electrolysis, as
formulated by Faraday. His first law is:
The quantity of any
element ( or radical, ie., group of elements ) liberated at either anode or
cathode during electrolysis is proportional to the quantity of electricity
that passes through the solution.
This
simply states that you cannot get something for nothing! All around the
world, different groups and individuals are constantly claiming that you can
run a conventional car motor from water with basic electrolysis and still
have power left over ( over-unity ). Well is you believe that, pigs might
fly.
Think
about it! Let's say that one horse power is 750 Watts. Let's also say that
you require ten horsepower to propel a vehicle at a reasonable rate. So we
require 7,500 Watts. Now, by Ohms law, 7,500 Watts divided by 12 Volts, ( our
conventional car power source voltage ) is equal to 625 Amps. As a normal car
alternator produces a maximum of 50 Amps, you may start to realise the
magnitude of the problem.
1.
For an ideal case, to cause current to pass through a solution, no minimum
potential difference is required. Irrespective of the liquid in the Joe cell,
a certain ( although at times, small ) current, will flow through the
solution in the cell if any potential difference, however small, is
maintained between the anode and cathode. This current that passes
corresponds to Ohm's law. So if you connect the Joe cell across a 12 Volt car
battery, a current will flow that is determined by the resistance of the
electrolyte. Now if you connect two car batteries in series ( 24 Volts )
across the Joe cell, you would expect it to obey Ohm's law and that twice the
current would flow. But as the Joe cell is a liquid and highly complex
resistance and potential source, what actually occurs is that the current
nearly triples. This has been verified with extensive experiments by Barry
Hilton. Conversely, if you reduce the voltage across the cell, the current
will be reduced. Using this fact, you can adjust the cell electrolysis current
from minimum, as when the car is not in use, to maximum during use, as
required. This is simply done with one resistor, or as previously mentioned,
you can have a fancy system that is constantly adjustable. I optimise my cell
as I said, by the addition of electrolyte, until a cell is flowing 1 Amp at
12 Volts for a running engine and ¼ of an Amp ( 250 m/A ) for a breeding idle
cell, ie. not running an engine.
2.
The above conditions only apply if there is no appreciable polarisation at
either anode or cathode plates. By polarisation I mean the change in
potential at the actual electrode surface that occurs as a result of the
current flow and thus chemical action. In our case, as we use 316L stainless
steel, ( the anode is thus considered insoluble ), this is not a major
problem.
A
test for polarisation with other materials is to check the voltage across the
cell on turning off the power. If there is polarisation, you will read a
reverse voltage to the normal potential polarity. The magnitude of this
reverse voltage is the amount of polarisation. This voltage falls off quite
rapidly and should be measured with a high impedance volt-meter.
3.
The conductivity of a solution depends upon the ionic concentration, rather
than the total or molecular concentration, as the undissociated molecules do
not conduct current. In our case, with acids, the degree of ionisation increases with dilution. This
explains why, for example, dilute sulphuric acid has a higher electrical
conductivity than a more concentrated form. So greater concentration is not
better for you electrolyte in the Joe cell.
4.
The pH of a solution, is a convenient way of expressing the free hydrogen ion
concentration and thus the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. The normal
scale is from pH 1 for completely hydrated strongly acid solutions, to a pH
14 for a strongly alkaline solution. A pH value of 7 is considered neutral.
In neutral solutions, the hydrogen and hydroxyl ion concentrations are
present in equal amounts. Acid solutions cause an excess of hydrogen ions and
alkaline solutions a deficiency of hydrogen ions, ie. an excess of hydroxyl
ions.
For
example, pH 4 = 0.0001 gramme ions per litre, and a pH 5 = 0.00001 gramme
ions per litre, etc.
It
is important to realise, that the pH is a measure of the free or active
acidity or alkalinity of a solution, and not
of the actual acid or alkali concentration.
More
on pH if the above is too simple ( Courtesy ETI
magazine).
All
acids have at least one hydrogen atom that tends to break away from the
molecule when the acid is dissolved in water. In doing so it leaves behind an
electron and becomes a positively charged hydrogen ion. It is these free
hydrogen ions that are responsible for the chemical properties of acids, and
their relative numbers determine the strength of the acid in question.
Alkalis
are extreme examples of a class of substances known as bases. Bases are like
converses of acids. When they are dissolved in water they tend to break up in
a negatively charged hydroxyl ion and a positively charged residue.
Bases
and acids in the same solution tend to neutralise each other. The free
hydrogen ions from the acid combine with the free hydroxyl ions from the base
to form molecules of water.
The
reaction between hydrogen and hydroxyl ions can also proceed in the other
direction. That is, water molecules can break up again into free hydrogen and
hydroxyl ions. There is only a slight tendency for this to happen, however.
In pure water at room temperature only about one water molecule in ten
million dissociates into ions. In other words, the concentration of free
hydrogen ions in pure water is one part in ten million. This concentration of
hydrogen ions is known as a neutral
solution.
If
an acid is dissolved in water, the solution will no longer be neutral, there
will be more hydrogen ions because of the dissociation of the acid. Dissolved
bases will initially result in a solution that has more hydroxyl ions than
neutral water, but these hydroxyl ions will tend to combine with any free
hydrogen ions to form water molecules. The net result is that the number of
free hydrogen ions in a basic solution is lower than neutral water.
Clearly
if we can measure the number of free hydrogen ions in a solution we can find
out if it is acidic or basic, and to what extent. Actually what we will be
interested in is not the absolute number of hydrogen ions, but their relative
numbers ie. their concentration.
For
reason of mathematical convenience and logical purity, chemists prefer to
work with a quantity known as the activity of hydrogen ions. Since the
activity is generally proportional to the concentration, the exact
distinction between the two terms need not concern us here.
The
range of possible values for hydrogen activity is very wide, from 10 for the
strongest acid solution to 10 to the minus 14 for the strongest alkali. This
leads to numbers that are awkward to writer and even more awkward to speak.
The
pH notation which was introduced in 1909 by the Danish chemist S.P.L.
Sorensen, makes things a bit easier. It defines pH as the negative
logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity ie. pH - logA.
As
mentioned above, low values of pH indicates acidity, high values alkalinity.
Neutral water is pH 7.
*********************************************************
Rotating fields.
Over
countless years, various experimenters, professional and otherwise,
repeatedly reported the discovery of unusual phenomena that could not be
explained, or that did no fit in with the known laws and theories that
existed at the time of the discoveries. The easiest method employed was to
shelf the idea until more became known while scientists " came up to
speed " on the subject. In Chapter 3
is a list of the different names given to one of these mysterious group of
forces.
Although
all the various scientists were working on the same type of force, due to a
lack of formulated and written characteristics of this force, each scientist
re-discovered the same force and gave it a new name. Well, nothing has
changed. Orgone as a name, is not the flavour of the month, but torsion and
axial fields are. It really does not matter what name you give a rose; it
still smells the same. Similarly, our cosmic life force behaves the same, no
matter what some scientist decides to call it. I am only belabouring the
point to make you aware that torsion and axial fields are not a new
discovery, but the same old force with a different coat.
Some
properties of torsion fields, as presented recently by Yu. V. Nachalov and A.
N. Sokolov: ( Try web site www.amasci.com/freenrg/tors/doc17.html
):
*
They exhibit phenomena associated with the fifth force.
*
They cannot be shielded with metal screens.
*
They have velocities billions of time greater than the speed of light.
*
They can affect the of weight of objects.
*
They can propagate in the future as well as in the past.
*
They can transmit information without transmitting energy.
*
They propagate through physical media without interacting with the media.
*
They cannot be shielded by most materials.
*
They can be shielded by materials with a certain spin structure.
*
Any nuclear spin-polarised object is a source of torsion fields.
*
The interaction of a spin polarised
particle with a spin polarised object, results in
the appearance of anomalous forces which depend on mutual
spin orientation of the
particle and object.
*
Each physical objects, in LIVING or
NON-LIVING Nature, possesses its own characteristic
torsion
field.
*
They can be observed by Kirlian methods.
*
Any permanent magnet possesses its own torsion field.
*
Pyramids, cones, cylinders, flat objects, triangles, etc. are torsion field
generators.
*
Aluminium is an effective shield for torsion fields.
*
Aluminium mirrors will reflect torsion fields.
*
A combination of geometrical shape and high voltage will cause a reduction in
gravitation.
*
Many effects remain up to four days after the torsion field is removed.
*
They are identical to the transverse spin-polarisation of the physical
vacuum.
*
They are shielded by artificial
materials possessing orthonormal topology of structure.
*
Torsion field has a cone shaped spatial
configuration.
*
They significantly alter the oscillation of quartz crystals.
*
Torsion fields can alter the process of radioactive decay.
*
The charged object must not be subject to any shocks, otherwise the torsion
field charge
will
disappear, as torsion fields are closely coupled to inertial forces.
*
They can be generated as the result of the distortion of the geometry of the
physical vacuum.
Torsion
field references amount to over 10,000 articles belonging to about 100
authors. Over half of these work in Russia. So dear reader, if you want to
track down the properties in detail. you have more than enough to keep you
busy for a long time.
To
summarise the above, all these so-called new torsion and axial field
properties match exactly
the properties as given to you in this book and that were known for hundreds
of years. At such, apart from a change in name, we have additional
irrefutable and current verification that the Joe cell is a simple Orgone (
or life force ) accumulator.
For
the astute reader, I am sure that you can think, ( with the use of some of
the above newly mentioned effects ) of methods of improving your basic cell
to make it less leaky, thus acting as a better container of Orgone.
***************************************************
The past.
A.
A
very old warning states that Cosmic fire can consume the unready; man is
warned that to tamper with the energies of the Universe is forbidden until he
is prepared through inner transformation.
As
this transformation is far from completion in the majority of mankind, we
have a sorry state, where critical information on Cosmic energy and its
utilisation have to be carefully guarded. As all energies can be used both
for good and bad, the end result is that a few have used these powers for the
control of the majority. As such, information on the Cosmic forces is very
hard to come by at the grass root level, where we, the minions reside.
Throughout
history, various scraps of information have been published that has given the
inquiring researcher enough data to enable him to piece together at least the
rudiments of the power source and the related construction.
As
Walter Russell said, " Everything which
seems at rest depends upon violent motion to make believe it is at rest.
" So, this seeming stillness that surrounds us is a seething sea of
violent motion. By unbalancing this rest and balance, we have endless power
at our fingertips.
Also,
as quoted by Walter Russell from The Divine Iliad,
" Great art is simple. My
universe is great
art, for it is simple.
Great art is balanced. My
universe is
consummate art, for it is
balanced simplicity.
I have but one law for all My
opposed
pairs of creating things; and
that law needs
but one word to spell it out,
so hear Me
when I say that the one word of
My law is
BALANCE
And if man needs two words to
aid
him in his knowing of the
workings of that
law, those two words are
BALANCED
INTERCHANGE
If man still needs more words
to aid
him knowing of My law, give him
another one, and let those
three words be
RHYTHMIC
BALANCED INTERCHANGE
So,
dear reader, as you can see in the above, the energy is a rhythmic, balanced
interchange of two streams as is our Orgone force, a pulsating, dual
expanding and contracting vortex. All expressions of energy seek a point of
rest, and return to a condition of rest. Our Joe cell concentrates this rest
energy and in this concentrated, unnatural state, the energy is desperately
trying to return to its base or rest state. We allow this to occur in the
combustion chambers of our motor, and the resultant return to rest of the
Orgone energy creates the work that powers the motor.
I
will now mention other quotes regarding the Cosmic force, from far less
authoritative individuals than the Almighty.
B.
The
following is a communication received and written by Carlos Zelaya in 1971:
"
In Cosmic Energy, or the energetic action of Cosmic Rays, we find it is in
itself an undrainable energy source within the reach of all the Universe. To
take advantage of it at any experience we must use as departure point some
elemental concepts based upon Cosmic laws.
This
energy moves itself within certain fields or strips, both at infinite space
as within the geomagnetism of heavily bodies. To achieve tapping and
concentrating it, it is necessary to make geomagnetical study of the
planetary area, as a deep study of astral or astrological motions, according
to your language. .......Considering that these rays move and behave in a
given way according to solar and lunar motions, and with the combination of
both and of planet Mars, which is the main reflector of this solar system for
Cosmic rays, they are the most fitting for the experiences of exiting the
atomic nucleii. "
Additionally,
the following was received by Carlos, also in 1971.
"
To condense cosmic energy it is needed a device somewhat different to the
ones presently used on Earth.
It
is not only different but its variations lies upon concepts and principles
related to its construction, on Earth are taken as principles
physico-chemical phenomena, etc.. We take as principle the ELECTROCOSMIC
phenomenon, which is the energetic manifestation of the WHOLE's Elemental
Laws.
Therefore,
for energy-accumulation, we take into consideration that;
Any directed energy within an
inert space tends to form a field
because of the seeking an
equidistant balance with respect to
the field's axis properly.
"
Also,
the following was received by Carlos in 1971.
"
The phenomenon because of which cosmic energy is condensed is:
1.
Because its natural atoms are ACTIVE MATTER.
2.
Because it is " active matter ", it is possible to condense and fix
it.
To
fix its condensation it is necessary that the energy levels be active enough,
for the later, with the polarisation " shock ", be formed the
layers of matter, which only through their atom's excitation it is active and
generates, by reaction of impulses, a given wavelength.
With
this simple principle, but highly positive, it is attained the concentration
of ( cosmic ) energy into layers of NATURAL matter and its generation of
regulable fields according to the excitation it is made to undergo, for the
natural matter of the Cosmos is an energy source. "
I
have left the translations as received, you may want to manipulate it into
more " correct " English.
C.
You
may want to read an article by Rick Anderson and his explanation on the
Poynting vector and the Lorentz force. See his article at ( http://www.tricountyi.net/~randerse/lgf.htm
). This article will explain to you the reason for the rotation of a
suspended magnet that is placed near a charging vat. Also, it will partially
explain to you the reason for the concentric, cylinder within cylinder design
of the basic Joe cell. In brief, if you do not have Internet access, I will
quote the main paragraph:
"
The third vector ( Lorentz/Poynting force ), then , must appear at right
angles to BOTH the electric and magnetic vectors, at all points around the
perimeter of the subject; and so it manifests as a CIRCULAR ORBIT OF FORCE
AROUND THE SUBJECT WITH A PREFERRED DIRECTION, similar to a rotating energy
field or vortex. The direction of this circular Lorentz can be switched
between clockwise and counter-clockwise simply by reversing the polarity ( or
physical connections to the coils ) of the amplified signal driving the
coils. A North pole at the top, with a South at the bottom, will cause the
Lorentz force to circle counter-clockwise, and a S-N clockwise. "
This
has been explained in earlier chapters, of this work.
D.
You
may want to read " An Analysis of the Joe cell from a Biodynamic
Perspective ", By Guy McCarthy. Although I disagree with a fair portion
of his conclusions, nevertheless, there is a lot of good background
information for the Joe cell experimenter. It is available on web site:
E.
Orgone
in relation to some other energies. By Lawrence Barth.
"
In the late 1950's, Gaston Burridge published an article on " cone
" energy. He discovered a form of energy which, he states, his and
others' experiments show come in a beam from the apex of a cone or pyramid
made purely of metal, or cardboard or wood covered on the outside with metal
foil, especially brightly polished foil. Here one is reminded of the orgone
accumulator, especially the funnel accumulator, but we must notice that the
metal is on the outside of the organic material, not the reverse; nor need
there be any opening at the apex, as is the case with the funnel. To the best
of my knowledge, the radiation comes in a beam from the apex rather than equally from every surface
of the metal. The beam is as intense at night as at daytime, this seems to
eliminate sunlight as the direct source of the energy. "
F.·
The
research of Karl Von Reichenbach. By Kenneth Strarz, ( quoted in selected
parts ).
"
Baron Karl Von Reichenbach was a nineteenth century scientist whose amazing
researches have been almost totally forgotten. He discovered the fundamental
new energy, odyle, the same in major respects to Reich's orgone. in support
of his discovery he performed literally thousands of controlled experiments,
publishing the results over a twenty year period. Reichenbach did not reckon
with the terror and hatred that the human being feels when confronted by life
specific energies.
Reichenbach
was born in 1788 in Stuttgart. In chemical research he discovered creosote,
paraffin, eupion and pittarcal. from 1845 until his death, he tried
fruitlessly to convince his colleagues of his discoveries. he did a huge
amount of research in the unseen properties of magnets and crystals. Crystals
and magnets observed in the dark showed flames rising three inches from the
ends, shaped like a tulip. They were very beautiful and moved constantly. He
named the new energy odyle.
In
addition to magnets and crystals, Reichenbach described eight other sources
of odic energy: living organisms, the sun, moon and stars, heat, friction,
artificial light, chemical reactions, electrical charges, and the material
world in general. He discovered that the odic processes in the human body
interacted with other sources of odic energy. Reichenbach discovered that a
strongly charged body could alter the natural charge of another substance by
contact.
His
final conclusion is .....that the odic
force is a universal adjunct of all matter in variable and unequal
distribution and that this force is one which extends over the entire
universe. "
As
stated above, there is a vast amount of recorded data, but unfortunately not
easily available, as most of his work has been out of print for over one
hundred years. His work is vital to any reader that attempts a thorough
understanding of the Orgone force.
G.
The
work of Georges Lakhovsky.
Lakhovsky
states that every living being emits radiations. If you read his book "
The secret of Life ", you will easily see that the experimental results
obtained with various shaped spirals is a direct tie-in with our Orgone
energy topic. Similarly, you will see how the " Y factor " ties in
to the body's emitted radiation. Again, good reading for the researcher.
H.
Some
very interesting comments from the great Erwin Schrodinger one of the
founders of quantum mechanics and well respected by his peers. The comments
nicely tie in with the Orgone force and living organisms:
"...Today
it is believed that living organisms feed on energy and various kinds of
foods have different energetic values. This is an absurdity. ...in any point
of the universe entropy increases and the living organism continuously
produces positive entropy,
too, and so everyone is drawn towards a state of maximum entropy, ie., to
death. To avoid this state and so to be alive, the living organism decreases
his entropy continuously extracting the negative
entropy from the environment, including food..."
What
a lovely way of stating that we require Orgone ( which has negative entropy )
and thus by logic we will interact with any Orgone source, including a Joe
cell! Again, the Y-factor.
I.
To
finish this very brief section on past information, I will mention some
important research information from Reich.
The
effect of Deadly Orgone Rasdiation. ( 1961 )
Compiled by Charles R. Kelley in Radix institute bulletins.
"·Dor
is an abnormal life-inimical form of orgone energy. it is present recurrently
throughout the Earth's atmosphere, is present chronically in large regions of
it, and is increasing.
Dor
is an immobilised stagnant energy that seriously interferes with normal
orgone energy metabolism, both of atmospheric and of living orgone systems.
Whereas
orgone energy normally gives the sky a light blue or blue grey appearance,
DOR-infested regions of the atmosphere appear dark, sometimes blackish or
purplish black. Normal orgone energy is in constant motion, flowing,
flimmering, or pulsating, while DOR is still and oppressive.
The
stillness of DOR-infested atmosphere makes them especially subject to
pollution of all kinds. Urban smog appears principally and most seriously in
atmospheres immobilised by DOR.
Animals
or plants exposed to heavy or chronic dor concentration are seriously
disturbed in their orgone energy metabolism, which is dependent on the
external orgone energy field in which they live. Continued exposure can
result in grave disorders and eventually, even death for plant and animal
alike.
A
tree exposed to a DOR infested atmosphere dies in a particular way. DOR is
attracted down onto the tree from above. The top of the tree therefore is
usually affected first. the leaves curl and die, and the bark disintegrates
and peels. The tops of outstretched branches, usually near the top of the tree,
are next affected. The bark on the tops of the branches turns dark and
disintegrates. The tree dies from the top down and from the outside in.
In
areas of extremely high DOR concentration, exposed rocks begin to turn black.
The black usually begins in small spots, and expands to cover more and more
rock surface.
When
DOR is removed by the use of the Reich apparatus, it becomes concentrated
around the equipment. This concentration can become so serious as to be a
hazard to life."
The
Core men.
I
have no intentions of boring you with any conspiracy theories or my phobias.
I will quote Reich directly:
"
1. The CORE men ( Core = Cosmic Orgone Engineering ), as I came to call them,
apparently were thoroughly conversant with the laws of functioning in the
cosmic Or energy ocean, especially with gravity as a function of
superimposition.
2.
They use cosmic Or energy in propelling their machines.
5.
The CORE men were obviously riding their space ships on the main Or energy
streams of the Universe."
There
is much more on the above in the Orop Galactic Stream publication.
The
Orgone Energy motor.
I
will mention in brief, some references from Dr. Reich's work, in relation to
a method of utilising Orgone energy to power a motor. The full details were
published in 1948 and 1949, and the reader may refer to these for full
details.
For
his radioactivity work, Reich used a Geiger Muller counter. As a result of
many experiments, he noticed reading anomalies with some of his experiments.
Basically, he noticed increased reading with the counter dependent on Orgone
concentrations. This eventuated in Reich eliminating the normal Geiger Muller
tube and replacing it with his own specially made tubes. He named these Vacor tubes.
These
tubes were evacuated to .5 of a micron, which is below the level that normal
ionisation would occur. As a result of charging these Vacor tubes with Orgone
energy, he discovered that they would produce a high pulse rate on the GM
counter. This led Reich to further experimentation, resulting in the
modification of the standard counter circuit in such a way that a small motor
could be made to rotate directly from the Orgone energy.
This
motor was a small AC type made by Western Electric, with a type number of
KS-9154. It would run when Reich connected an antenna and/or earth to the
modified GM counter. It would also
rotate whilst under the influence of a field enemating from a living
creature. The rotation of the motor was quite unusual as it could
reverse direction spontaneously without significantly slowing down and
speeding up again as if the motor had no inertia. The rotational speed also
varied unexpectantly and could be made to run faster or slower, depending on
the person that had his hand near it.
Reich
explained the above idiosyncrasies, by referring to a force he called the
" Y factor." He refused to divulge what the Y factor was, and
mankind will have to wait till the year 2007 AD, when his sealed archives
will be opened. As already mentioned, I am very confident that the Y factor
simply stand for YOU, meaning that the individuals Orgone field interacts
with the experiment. This has occurred over and over with experimenters
interacting with the Joe cell.
For
the more dubious reader, I will quote directly some of the comments of
witnesses that were present, when Reich was demonstrating the Orgone motor:
Myron
Sharaf.
"
....it involved the use of an accumulator attached to a motor; concentrated
Orgone energy was triggered by a small amount of electricity, an amount
insufficient to rotate the motor without the accumulator......When powered by
the combination of Orgonotic and electrical energy, it ran smoothly and
quietly; but the speed varied depending upon the weather....more rapidly on
dry, clear days, more slowly when the humidity was high. "
Elsworth
Baker.
"
Reich first used vacor tubes in series attached to a small accumulator and
connected to a transformer to build up an electric charge to excite the
Orgone energy. He used four or five vacor tubes. All were connected to a 25
Volt electric motor.....Reich took away one vacor tube after another until
all were taken away, and still the motor ran. The important ingredient was
the so-called Y factor which Reich did not divulge. .....On Orgone energy ,
the motor was practically noiseless and ran smoother and faster. At times, it
would change direction. In damp weather, it would not run. "
Lois
Wyvell.
"
The one I saw was about the size of a large orange.....It was hooked up to a
special Orgone accumulator with the Y factor that Reich did not divulge as he
felt mankind was not ready to use such a potentially boundless power
rationally.....But the motor ran on atmospheric orgone energy fed to it
through the accumulator and also from the human energy field.....It ran
erratically, as no motor with a mechanical energy source does: It slowed down
and speeded up without any interference. Also, if one curved his hands over
the motor, it picked up speed, and with one's hand over it, it speeded up and
slowed down....It reversed itself every once in a while without slowing down,
even without a jolt. "
As
you can see, there is a large and undeniable link between the atmosphere,
living organisms and the Orgone motor. In a movie sequence that Reich made,
the is a demonstration of the motor not turning until Reich placed his hand
in the vicinity of the motor. The motor then ran until Reich removed his
hand. So if we are not dealing with a living force, I would challenge the
reader to offer me a logical, scientific reason to the contrary. Please,
don't bother replying with references to tricks with mirrors, RF transmitters
or any other circus act type explanation.
Again,
let me state that the above is a very, very small sample of the vast amount
of recorded data in our historical archives.
*******************************************************
The present.
The
present lies with you. There are many teams spread all over the world, that
are experimenting with Orgone accumulators. These teams are working with the
Cosmic energy for many and varied applications. The Joe cell and its
application, is a very small section of the overall research work. The
majority of the effort is in four main areas:
1.
Weather control. There has been a vast amount of knowledge gathered in this
application. Reich himself has written hundreds of pages on his cloudbusting
operations. A more recent individual is Trevor Constable. The book, "
Loom of the Future ", by Thomas J. Brown from Borderland Science
Research Foundation, is a fair overview of the present state of the art.
2.
Water modification. This area has a smaller following, but is amply covered
on the Internet. Basically, it involves the use of either egg shapes or
vortexes or both, ( after Viktor Shauberger's work ), to modify the water
structure and the enclosed Orgone energy. The end result is a living water
more suited for all living organisms. There is a lot of literature on this.
Check the Internet.
3.
Health uses. This is the one that caused the demise of Reich and his works.
He, and many others that have since copied him, have discovered that the
Orgone accumulator can have wondrous curing abilities, with many claims of
cancer cures. A lot of literature on this. Check the Internet.
4.
Covert uses. Since recorded history began, secretive groups have exploited
the majority by withholding huge advances in technology. This has not
changed, and will not change in the near future. It is indeed very
frustrating experimenting with your pieces of stainless steel tubes and your
Joe cell, when the chosen few are laughing their heads off, watching you
trying to recreate the wheel.
So,
as far as the present is concerned, we have basically two groups, one covert
and way beyond any technology that the average person can imagine, and the
other a huge team of back yard and academic
experimenters,
stumbling and bumbling their way through the fog.
************************************************************
The future.
To
quote Walter Russell directly, regarding a future new source of power (
written 1957 ):
"
The first stage to be transmutation of the atmosphere into free hydrogen,
then, generations later, by transforming solar radiation into solar
generation as man's ultimate fuel. This would not only free him from
dependence upon earth's resources, but give him complete power to cause rains
wherever he desires, on desert or meadow, and to dissipate cyclones while
forming. "
A
chief source of Orgone, is solar radiation.
The
future depends on us all. If we interchange our research for the good of all,
(which is so easy now with e-mail and the Internet ) we will be able to make
quantum leaps in our knowledge. thus the gap between covert and freely
available information will close. The end result is a better world for the
majority and not just for the chosen few.
DISCLAIMERS.
Irremissible reading for the
practising experimenters and constructors.
As
the author of this book titled, " Experimenters Guide to the Joe cell
", I hereby make the following formal declarations and give the
following advice:
1.
I make no recommendation to anyone to construct a Joe cell. I am merely
giving an account of my own learnings, experiments and the results obtained
thereby.
2.
I do not urge and do not recommend the alterations to the fuelling of
registered motor vehicles or other engines which are to be used on public
roads or other places.
3.
In the event that a person, who by his/her own decision endeavours any, or
all parts of my experiments, I strongly suggest, that the operator must be
well versed beforehand, in the arts and knowledge requirements of the above
tasks, for a safe and successful construction.
4.
Misuse, or abuse through negligence or intent, or unfamiliarity with
construction techniques, or the laws of the country, or safety procedures,
are NOT the responsibility
of the author, but are in the hands of the practitioner.
5.
The author does not accept any responsibility for any injury, death to any
living form, damage to property, or damage to the environment, or breaches to
any laws that apply at the time to the modifications of internal combustion
engines and the pollutants thus released, nor any other event that may give
rise to legal action in the event of any persons carrying out research and
development, or any other act that may be initiated as a result of the
information contained within this document.
6.
While the author stands by the authenticity of the results achieved by his
own experience, due to the many variable factors of the process including the
" Y " factor, no guarantee is implied or given that the outcome of
any work carried out by any persons will be the same as those given in this
document.
Melbourne, Australia-1999. The author, Alex. A. Schiffer.
Like all
potentially dangerous devices, use at your own risk.
GLOSSARY
" To obtain real knowledge,
we must feel the truth of a thing, and understand that it is true,
and know the reason why it
cannot be otherwise.
Max
Heindel.
Acid A substance which releases
hydrogen ions when it is added to water. The hydrogen ion is solvated ie. a
water molecule adds on to it, to give the oxonium ion.
Acetic acid The common name
for ethanoic acid.
Accumulator In our case, a
rechargeable Orgone concentrating container
Alkali A base which is
soluble in water. They are usually metal hydroxides eg. sodium hydroxide, but
ammonia solution is also an alkali.
Alloy Is a mixture which is made up
of two or more metals or which contains metals and non-metals.
Aluminium The most abundant
metal in the Earth's crust, ( approximately 8% by mass ). It is obtained by
electrolysis of Bauxite
Ampere The unit of
electric current. It measures the rate of flow of charge. 1 Amp = 1
coulomb/second.
Anion A negatively charged ion.
Annealing A process of
heating a material for a given time at a given temperature, followed by a
slow cooling. It is a common form of heat treatment.
Anode When a solution undergoes
electrolysis, the electrode with the positive potential is called the anode.
In the Joe cell, it is the outer casing.
Atom The smallest indivisible
particle of an element that can exist.
Battery A device which
converts chemical energy into electrical energy.
Brass An alloy of copper and zinc.
Bronze The combination of >90%
copper and <10% tin.
Capillarity The tendency of
the water in a Joe cell to move up the sides of the cylinders depending on
the relative attraction of the water molecules to each other and to the
cylinder walls.
Cathode The negatively
charged pole in a battery or electrolytic cell.
Cation A positively charged ion.
Cell Defined in our case as an
accumulator of Orgone energy.
Conductor An electrical
conductor is a substance which allows an electric current to flow through it.
Current Electric current
is the movement of electrons through a conductor. It's measured in Amperes.
DC Direct Current. The type of
electrical current produced form a simple cell or battery.
Diamagnetic A repulsion by a
material from a strong magnetic field. It will try to find its way to the
weakest part of the magnetic field.
Distilled water Tap water and rain
water are not pure. They contain salts and dissolved gases. Water is often
distilled to increase purity. Most of the salts are left behind but the water
may still contain dissolved gases. The presence of carbon dioxide reduces the
pH of the water considerably.
DOR Deadly Orgone. An "
unhealthy " form of Orgone energy in the atmosphere.
Under
agitation by materials that act as irritants to Orgone, the Orgone
energy
eventually becomes immobilised and " dead ".
Electrode An electrode is a
conductor which dips into an electrolyte and allows the current ( electrons )
to flow to and from the electrolyte.
Electrolyte A solution which
contains ions.
Electrolysis When a direct
current is passed through a liquid which contains ions ( an electrolyte ),
chemical changes occur at the two electrodes.
Electron A fundamental
negatively charged particle, part of an atom. If an atom loses an electron,
it becomes positively charged ie. a cation, or if it gains an electron, it
becomes negatively charged, ie., an anion.
Element A pure substance
which cannot be broken down into anything simpler by chemical means.
Ethanoic acid It is one of the
simplest fatty acids. Vinegar contains 5% or more of ethanoic acid.
Fuel A fuel is a substance that
releases heat energy when treated in a certain way. In most fuels, the energy
is released by combustion. So, strictly speaking, when the car is running on
the Joe cell, it is not using any fuel.
Heat treatment The subjection of
metals and alloys to controlled heating and cooling after fabrication to
relieve internal stresses and improve the physical properties.
Hydrogen A gaseous diatomic
element. The atom consists of one proton and one electron.
Insulator A substance which,
in our case, is a poor conductor of both electricity and Orgone.
Ion An atom which possesses an
electrical charge. When an atom gains or loses an electron, it becomes an
ion.
Ionisation The gain or loss of
an electron in an atom.
Iron The most widely used metallic
element. One of the main problems with iron is that it rusts.
Leaky The inability of our cell to
retain the Orgone charge over a period of time.
Litmus This is extracted from lichen
and used as an acid-base indicator.
Mass This is how much material a
substance possesses. It is usually measured in grams or kilograms.
Magnetic material One of a number of
substances that are strongly attracted by magnets and can be magnetised.
These include iron, nickel, and cobalt, and all those alloys that contain a
proportion of these metals.
Meniscus The curved upper
surface of the water in the Joe cell, caused by capillarity action.
Molecule The smallest
particle of an element or compound which exists independently.
Nucleus The part of an atom
where the mass is concentrated. It contains protons and neutrons.
Neutron One of the
particles which are found in the nucleus of all atoms except hydrogen. It has
approximately the same mass as the proton but no charge.
Nitrogen An unreactive
diatomic gas which forms about 78% of the atmosphere.
Orgone The cosmic life
force. See section on Orgone in book.
Oxonium ion The loss of an
electron from a hydrogen atom leads to the formation of a hydrogen ion. This
is a proton.
Oxygen A gaseous non-metallic element.
It makes up approximately 21% of the atmosphere.
Paramagnetic A material with a slight
attraction towards the region where the magnetic field is strongest is said
to be paramagnetic ( As opposed to a diamagnetic material ).
Petrol A mixture of hydrocarbons
which is used as a fuel.
pH pH scale from 0 to 14 used for
measuring acidity or alkalinity. A pH of 7.0
indicates
neutrality, below 7 is acid, while above 7 is alkaline. Strong acids such as
those used in car batteries, have a pH of about 2; strong alkalies such as
sodium hydroxide are pH 13.
Acidic
fruits such as citrus fruits are above pH 4, fertile soils have a pH of about
6.5 to 7.0, while weak alkalis such as soap are 9 to 10.
The
pH of a solution can be measured by using a broad-range indicator, either in
solution or as a paper strip. The colour produced by the indicator is
compared with a colour code related to the pH value. An alternative method is
to use a pH meter fitted with a glass electrode.
For
our Joe cell work, the paper strip indicator is more than adequate ( and
cheap ).
Pipette A piece of
glassware used for measuring and transferring a volume of liquid.
Polymer A large molecule in
which group of atoms are repeated.
Proton A positively
charged subatomic particle found in the nucleus of the atom.
Rubber A natural polymer. It is a
hydrocarbon. Rubber is a good insulator.
Seeding The initial
capture of the Orgone force in our cell.
Steel An alloy which contains iron as
the main constituent.
Sump The lower 1 inch area under the
cylinders in a Joe cell.
Suspension When a solid is
added to a liquid and the solid neither dissolves in the liquid nor sinks to
the bottom, the mixture is referred to as a suspension because the solid is
suspended in the liquid.
Vinegar A solution which
is made by the action of bacteria on wine or cider. It contains about 4%
ethanoic acid. It is used widely in the food industry for preserving foods.
Water An oxide of hydrogen. It is
one of the most common compounds on the earth. It does not conduct
electricity in its pure state although it can be electrolysed if small
amounts of acid or alkali are added. The products are hydrogen and oxygen.
The water which we drink is never pure.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I
want to especially thank my friend, Robert W., who unselfishly gave me his
time and expertise on numerous occasions with the production of this manual.
I
want to thank my wife Irene, for her patience and understanding throughout
the years that I struggled with lunatic fringe experiments.
CREDITS
I
could not possibly name all the great men who paved the road before my humble
donation. By using their scientific contributions, I was able to stand on
their shoulders, and thus obtain a better view of the problem. This would not
have been possible without their lifetime's works and their unselfish sharing
to help their fellow man.
I
must mention a few of the main contributors:
Baron
Von Liebig Research in the force of life.
Goethe
Luminosity around biological objects.
James
DeMeo Notes on dangers.
J.G.
Gallimore Compilation of energy effects.
Karl
Von Reichenbach The discovery of the Odic force.
Wilhelm
Reich The discovery of the Orgone force, accumulators,
bions,
Motors, Measuring instruments, cloud busting,
Melanor,
Orite, Brownite, Orene, etc.
»
Submitted
by Ray Edwards (not verified) on December 18, 2006 - 20:19.
934
E MANHATTON DR
TEMPE,
ARIZONA 85282
480-720-7293
I
HAVE LIMITED RESOURCES, BUT I INTEND TO BUILD A JOE CELL FIRST TO PROVE IT TO
MYSELF AND THEN TO SHARE IT WITH MY FRIENDS. I DON'T THINK I WILL USE IT FOR
MY CAR. IÂ IINTEND TO USE IT FOR A GENERATOR TO PROVIDE POWER TO THE
HOUSE. I BOUGHT FOUR 40" TUBES OF STAINLESS STEEL BUT AS I READ FURTHER
THAT IS THE SIMPLE PART. THE HARD PART IS TO MAKE THE PRESS-ON TOP AND BODY.
OBVIUOUSLY I NEED HELP. I MADE AN AGREEMENT WITH A MACHINIST TO LET HIM HAVE
ENOUGH OF MY MATERIAL TO MAKE HIS OWN JOE CELL HE WOULD MACHINE MINE. BUT
THAT WILL NOT SOLVE THE REST OF THE PROBLEM.
i
WANT TO START A POCKET COMMUNITY OF PEOPLE USING THE JOE CELL HERE IN TEMPE
THROUGH MY CHURCH. i WOULD LIKE TO GET A KIT FOR THE FIRST ONE SO I HAVE A
GOOD MODEL TO START WITH.
i
HAVE A WELDING MACHINE AND PLASMA ARC CUTTING TORCH AND GRINDERS AND HAND
TOOLS BUT NO LATHE.
i
WANT A CONPREHENSIVE MANUAL TO ANSWER ALL OF MY QUESTIONS.
»
Submitted
by Anonymous (not verified) on February 9, 2007 - 08:16.
I am
located in the PHX AZ area, 101/I17 and would be interested in joining such a
community, helping out and learning.
»
Submitted
by Tony (not verified) on August 16, 2007 - 18:04.
I'm
flying in to Phoenix tonight (8/16) only for the weekend and would enjoy some
meeting of the minds on spiritual matters as well as alt energy. I am seeing
much better results with my cell by using water from Lake Superior in MN.
My cell number is 612-720-0754 and my name is Tony. Ironically I'm coming in for a wedding and visit my father in law that may only have another week to live.
»
Submitted
by bill edward poole (not verified) on April 16, 2007 - 19:24.
Can
aluminum pipe be used in the first stage of the joe cell instead of stainless
steel, with out ill effects?
-bill
»
Submitted
by esaruoho on August 17, 2007
- 12:28.
wouldnt
it be nice to stick to stainless steel and see what that does first..
»
Submitted
by Anonymous (not verified) on January 8, 2008 - 17:59.
i
thought that the cell was only connected to the vehucule via the negative
lead on the proton cell for it to work , could you clear up this point?
»
Submitted
by Anonymous (not verified) on January 8, 2008 - 19:39.
i
thought that the cell was only connected to the vehucule via the negative
lead on the proton cell for it to work , could you clear up this point?
»
Submitted
by Myron (not verified) on June 29, 2008 - 17:53.
How
is this possible (be reliable and consistent) with all the following
warnings?
_________________________________________________________________________________________ The following should be avoided:
*
Any cathode ray device such as a TV sets, computers, oscilloscope, etc.
*
Microwave ovens, fluorescent lights, luminous face watches, smoke detectors and
electric blankets.
*
Mobile phones and towers, courier radio telephone service or similar
instrumentalities, airport radar and communication services, TV, AM, FM radio
transmitters, radio traffic lights, police radar, high tension power lines,
nuclear power plants, nuclear waste or storage facilities, and past or
present nuclear testing areas.
The
above electromagnetic and nuclear devices and materials are known to irritate
Orgone energy, driving it into a severely excited state which Reich
identified as the Oranur effect. These effects persist long after the
irritation is removed ( years ). Under such persisting agitation, the Orgone
energy eventually becomes immobilised and " dead ". Reich
identified this deadened energy state as Dor ( Deadly Orgone ). A typical
human reaction to Dor is lethargy, immobilisation and emotional remoteness.
The most important effect is, that it tends to drive latent medical symptoms
to the surface.
_______________________________________________________________________________________ The above are in our normal living areas ... they cannot be avoided. Is it possible to "shield" the electrolizer?
I
would really like to start on a project of alternate energy. All the ways of
producing hydrogen, hydroxy, orgone or what ever I've read or seen has not
convinced me to go in a certain direction without wasting time and money in
achieving the "best" system.
Thank
you for your time and efforts,
Myron
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FAIR
USE NOTICE: This site may contain some copyrighted
material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the
copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to expose
and advance the understanding of the issues covered here. We believe this
constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in
section 107 of the US Copyright Law.
The ONLY reason why free energy has
been suppressed and forced out by economics, politics and bankers, is because
they are operating through fraudulent man-made laws which are at odds (out of
balance) with nature. There is no reason that Paul Pantone spent months upon
months in a mental hospital by court order for attempting to reduce the
footprint we place directly on the face of mother nature and spaceship earth.
Wilhelm Reich was unlawfully harassed by FDA/court officials - this again
having nothing whatsoever to do with natural law - Wilhelm Reich worked for the
benefit and health of all humanity. That John Bedini, Joe Booker, Viktor
Schauberger, Thomas Henry Moray and others have been attacked, vilified,
threatened, purposefully forgotten and ripped off means that the society and
systems that allow this to happen "legally", are frightfully wrong.
Thus we need to tear this current system apart from the root and plant a new
seed which is in harmony with nature and God's Law. Only by all of us working
as aware crewmembers of spaceship Earth - for the benefit of every crewmember,
instead of selfishly for ourselves can we ever hope to escape the slavery that
we are in right now. Here is Staffan's message:
The ONLY solution is to enforce The Plan against the traitorous Free-Energy supressing N. W. O. Zion-Nazi mass-murder, inside-job perpetrators of OKC, 911, Bali, 7/7/2005 and the phoney War on Terror and Freedom, and reinstate God's Perfect Laws of Liberty and bring the perpetrators to Justice:- http://jahtruth.net/plan.htm
The ONLY solution is to enforce The Plan against the traitorous Free-Energy supressing N. W. O. Zion-Nazi mass-murder, inside-job perpetrators of OKC, 911, Bali, 7/7/2005 and the phoney War on Terror and Freedom, and reinstate God's Perfect Laws of Liberty and bring the perpetrators to Justice:- http://jahtruth.net/plan.htm
Time is running out:- http://jahtruth.net/signs.htm
MERLib supports
MERLib
supports the Wilhelm Reich Museum / Wilhelm Reich Infant Trust through using GoodSearch / GoodShop to
gather money for this non-profit-organization. In addition to running the
physical museum, they are in charge of producing two full-length documentaries
on Wilhelm Reich, are working on a book which will have the 1947-1957 letters,
diaries and scientific studies of Wilhelm Reich, so we will better be able to
comprehend the latter decade of Wilhelm Reich's life. A Biopic and a
full-length documentary would be beneficial at clearing the name of Wilhelm
Reich after the travesties of "W.R. - Mysteries of The Organism", and
the scant footage available on Wilhelm Reich or his devices. If you know there
is something to Wilhelm Reich's orgone discoveries, his orgone accumulator,
orgone shooter, orgone blanket, and orgone cloud-busting devices, if you find
that there should be more information on the atmospheric orgone motor, and the
human orgone-energy running motor, conditioned vacuum-tubes which respond to
orgone.. if you believe orgone plays a part in the nuclear energy and
preservation of nature question, then please start using GoodSearch from now on
and point all of your search-"income" to the "Wilhelm Reich
Infant Trust Foundation". As of September 2008, 17$ has accumulated by a
few persons using it. That is 0.01$ per search and use. If you use eBay via
GoodSearch (GoodShop), a larger percentage will be donated to the trust. The
Wilhelm Reich Museum are attempting to collect over 200,000$ for the singular
production of two of these films, they also require time and funds for the
research, translation and compilation purposes of the 1947-1957 followup to
"American Odyssey", a previous Wilhelm Reich study compilation which
featured his encounters at explaining Orgone energy to Albert Einstein. And
also, they now require funding for a new roof.
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